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First race? Really Lol Why not? Sorry if I'm not in the know of exactly what pads Burpspeed are running, my apologies. Burps latest write up mentions replacing pads after qualy but nothing more. No mention of make.

Im pretty sure your confusing me with someone else, I put pictures of my latest cars tensioner and cams prior to taking it apart and they were wrong yes. I know it won't always be at 12 o'clock especially if the heads skimmed etc (larger idlers should be used I know) The 'idiot marker' is a...

True they get by and so did cup racers but disks and pads were replaced like knickers on the racers. You can see in Tony's latest race that he was struggling to haul it up after straights and locking up which is usually a sign of struggling to stop it for the corner and over compensating...

I cant remember putting no pictures of tensioners the way I set them, maybe a pic of when I got my cars with the tensioners and timing was out on the cams. If I did put up a pic when I have done a belt then they should all be at 12 o'clock.

I totally agree its only logical. If its only a belt you are doing and nothing else and everything was fine before it definitely will work as you have seen.

This ^^^^ it has noticeable feeling when it slots in plus the crank still moves when in balancing holes although very slightly where it doesn't in the timing slot. I remove a plug as I typically have the inlet off anyway and use a cable tie against the piston to give you an idea, I then mark it...

Another case of phone phobia is it lol?

If its a chunk out then do I really need to answer that. If its paint that's missing then same again. There not hard to replace just very fiddly for the two centre bushes, 2nd pair of hands are useful. Definitely a home mechanic job and I would be pissed if I got charged more than an hours...

+1 I haven't had the chance to track the standard callipers with good pads yet but even with standard pads they stop you alright for a while then there's no confidence in them. I have 197 brembos fitted with oem pads and they never flinched on a trackday recently which cant be said for the 1*2...

You don't need a master cylinder upgrade for 197 brembos, certainly not on a cup as I have them fitted just now. If anything the pedal feel is improved and bite is very near the top (just the way I like it) There was a thread the other day about what master cylinder to fit as an upgrade in...

Mirror James's comments, I love the colour combo but you know that. Definite time to be had with those tyres, I killed my Hankooks at a trackday.

Shocks a gearbox and timing belt isn't exactly a huge deal but could understand breaking if you were paying garage prices for the work. They could easily need done on your next one too tbh, those faults are 3 of the most common things on a Clio sport to need replacing.

Time for to crack the tools back out again pal, nothing worse tbh after just finishing a job.

Apologies if its a re post but this is looking very good so far so I thought I would share. http://www.pistonheads.com/news/default.asp?storyId=27673

Its located below the coolant bottle on the sports and I'm guessing it will be the same on the lower models. It will look like a large block of aluminium with brake pipes coming from it and some wiring going into it, you can't miss it if you know what a brake pipe looks like.

I would say your brakes are just at that point where they are between metal to metal and a little bit of pad material left, they will grind some times and not others. Im guessing when you say you checked them you just looked through the wheel, check the back pad they will ALWAYS wear quicker on...

Lol check if it has an ABS pump, I very much doubt someone removed the full ABS system on road car tbh.

Re-read your post. Did you change the box too?

There is one test for your circumstances which is very rough guide but remove the top engine mount bracket that bolts to the engine and if the writing/branding on the belt are brand new then its a good pointer.

Sounds like synchros, depress the clutch and wait for 5 seconds before selecting 3rd and 4th while moving through the gbox on a steady drive and if its gone its synchros.

I'm meaning the cam seals not the cam plugs, the ones behind the pulleys. If you buy a Gates cambelt kit you will get the plugs anyway. edit:consider doing crank seal on the timing side too, check first though. If you do then don't buy it separate, buy the bottom end gasket set and you will get...

I have genuine pulley locking tool and sealey iirc horseshoe/pin and its been fine, for home mechanic fine. I would invest in genuine for trade work. It is possible to bend the tool and even the cam ends pretty easily. Cam seals, around £15 to replace so why not considering the work required to...

Genuine though? Adam will be cheaper than Marc R's quoted price unless that was from Adam, he is honestly the best prices you will find around and the small differences on most parts it makes sense to go genuine.

You going to try make your own vernier pulley?

Unless there cracked James I wouldn't be buying any new ones, clean threads, ptfe paste in those valves you have and it will be fine.

I'm sure I have an old one lying around Steve if Drew can't give you his.

Water pump I wouldn't worry about, it's run by aux belt and can be done easy but I would do the dephaser for piece of mind. You should do an oil change too along with the dephaser.

Renault, speak to Adam again lol, there not that pricey.

I don't think he wants a bigger better car tbh. He is of the same opinion as I have always been of where I also think they are french scrap and the prices reflect this, they are fun and serve a purpose. They are addictive though for the price.

I think that defeats the purpose, cheap motoring that is bought to be abused. ​They aren't all that either.