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Make sure the standard bolt taper fits right (should be 60 degrees) on the wheels and then using the standard bolt, put it through the wheel and see how much thread you sticking out ( you want 15-20mm) simples

You only need brake lights and in some cases headlights if you want to go racing iirc. Indicators will be useful when you need to indicate going into pits etc if you have some issues.

You shouldn't struggle for a FF car, almost all will fit.

Yeah thought about it tbh but the chamfer on the inside if the spacer would only have circa 1mm onto the spigot with 2x10mm stacked on top of each other with the lower spigot cut off. Not I deal if your away to chuck it round a track, I'll do it right and get some 20mm per side. edit: I read...

Sticky piston/caliper slide.

Not very well, the listed 20mm kit is 10mm per side and they have a spigot so don't even work. I have doubled them up with some washers for just now to clear my brembos untill I get others, you need the listed 40mm if you are wanting 20mm per side. Iirc 16mm is the smallest spigot spacer...

Quick one of the car back down on the ground after a little road test. Few things need looking at, the tracking is severely needing done and it spewed its pas fluid out shortly after that pic....Arsed for just now. I'll have a look when I'm back from holiday and i'll get the interior swapped...

Its connected from the ignition barell to the starter motor, really long curly cable like a pigs tail.

Compensatirs are usually fitted irrelevant if its abs or not, If I do have on then its not in the same place as my other cup and I have yet to find anything compensator like lol. Cheers, they really need painting but that can wait.

Got some more done, got all the fluids in and started it up, subframe on and suspension built up. The car wants to idle at around 2k then will drop down after you hold the revs up for a while. I will swap out for my spare TB to see of that helps, it looks to be pulsing on idle. Almost finished...

What diameters does it do? Iirc genuine tie rods are circa 27mm

Nice but expensive. http://www.pitlanemotorsport.com/shop/en/renault-clio-williams/2550-renault-clio-williams-airbox-in-carbon-fibre.html

No leaks so far, just got a suspected air leak to sort out. Yeah its nothing too fancy, just a good useable daily that wont be like a fush out of water on track. It is in too many pieces though....I'm regretting that now.

Yeah liquid gasket so it will take up any slight imperfections. I'll know soon anyway as I'm away to start it

Yeah slightly worried but you can only piss with the c**k you've got. I'm more worried about the lower compression on one of the cylinders. You can take a fair bit off them without issue on this type of thing unlike a big or small piston end or crank journal. It was a wet blaster that was used...

I would have the shims if there metal type and possibly the rear spacers.

Fecked glow plug won't give a knock although it can give a lot of smoke on some engines. Buy an injector puller to remove it. I'm assuming its carbon build up down the sides of the injector, big blow torch and a stilson as ruff as that sounds, Renault engines are renound for having stuck...

I think the op has been used to thinner wheels and is expecting the hub spigot to stick out more on a different set of wheels?!?!

Getting there, thank **** :sleepy:

I'd been interested in some bits, await sale thread if full spec isn't sold.

Had a half day on the car and got some more done. The car was snap steering over bumps when out in the road, I found a buckled wishbone on the o/s but after further investigation the subframe hole was enlarged causing the car to steer when it wanted. Welded on a repair washer so that should...

I poofed out and just set mine to standard timing today, needing it to pass an mot this week so thought it better to be safe, I will give it a try after the mot hopefully with power runs for both on standard inlet.

Not quite getting what your at there Chip but yeah it's expensive to blueprint an engine. The best run of parts are usually put aside at factory for things like group n so actual blue printing of the engine hardly takes place but the tolerances throughout the engine are as close to perfect as...

Group n engines are blue printed if you understand that term, squeezing every last bhp/torque from the car by having tighter machining tolerances than when they left the factory. Things like cam timing and ECU are played with to give the absolute best performance from Renault parts, they are a...

Fair enough, it is going in there for MOT, geo and maybe a power run so I hopefully I can get a deal done.

Just to give me an idea if they throw out a crazy number which I think £150 is tbh, thats 2/3's of the way to a remap.

No... One is from the back and one from the front, its not upside down.

True but nice to simplify the system, I wasted a day of my life on sunday that I won't get back on removing a subframe due to Renaults stupid design.

No you only need a different insert piece if you have proper Motorsport billies I.e cup racer suspension.

Edit : I can't see the twingo rack working without a lot of work.