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^^^^ I meant the crank is out 360 deg and the cams 180.

Its going to a tuner to have its friendly MOT done, what do you think would be a good price to have the idle raised Chip?

Thought you would like it. Everything has been bought for it, no more should be spent other than fuel,insurance and a couple of track days, all my £'s and time will be spent on the race car when it returns from paint. This thing should be a nice little b-road blaster. Yeah the tool has to be...

I worried that, so by the time I do that It would have been just as easy for someone to remap it.

How easy would that be to change by itself on the standard ecu?

Controller http://bit.ly/WiIc2 Column should come with ecu and motor attached, give the motor power and wire in this and that's all you need.

Not sure about non cup but have a read of this and you should be able to work it out. http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?675576-possible-cheaper-inner-track-rod

Cheers, looking to get it all done including interior and polished this week.

More done today, I was held up with waiting in blasting and my mates ST needing some suspension. Car will be running and back on 2 wheels tomorrow, I'm waiting on rear disk spacers before I can get it on the ground. Subframe painted and rebuilt with new tie and track rods, bottom arms, painted...

Have you started it yet? How's the idle with the exhaust retarded?

Well spotted, yeah your right mate. Noticed it today when I was playing around, just threw the tools in quickly before removing belt and never checked the flywheel for TDC. Inlet cam is still advanced and I think I'll so it again tbh, may even try and dial the exhaust a little too, cold get...

Its only cup/cup pack suspension that need to be longer, people used to say it was dealer on for these but its been proven its not, I just fitted a set today on my 172 cup. like above post they are usually listed for Kangoo van, they need to be 330mm from end to end for the cup.

Because wests is wrong, same as the bottom arms.

I have done it to although I haven't driven it yet, make sure its filled with fluid as the difference with and without was crazy just pushing it around my lock up, I used a syringe while slowly moving the rack from one side to the other and then made and fitted the pipe to bridge the piston. I...

Budget?

Blank it, you don't want any excess pressure being fed back into the crankcase, vent the breather to atmosphere through a catch can or however you like.

Sounds like that Injector is goosed that is stuck in, when its cold the large amount of fuel its injecting is creating the knock but when it warms up it is closer to the right amount of fuel the engine is requiring. Turbo won't create any noise on the engine unless its spewing oil and the...

That's enough for me to be happy to keep the settings ;)

The tie rods can be fitted to lower model racks iirc, my preferred route would be and I know it will be frowned upon is to fill the Cup rack with fluid and make a bridge pipe for it. Beefier rack and supposed to have less turns lock to lock.

No worries, I understand that he has spent his time to fine tune it and he can make money from it so that's cool. Can you tell me how the 197 cams compare to the 172 though, more duration, higher lift, more lap over etc etc?? How does your car idle with the rs2 and 197 cams, I'm guessing its...

Ahh I get you, I thought you had fiddled with the timing on the standard 197 engines. Its the same difference really, the two engines are very similar in design. I know MWM was given one of these group n tools, I guess it has filtered down to you through chip and that's where you lads a lads...

MODS CAN DELETE THIS THREAD.

Well after having a good read of that thread I linked, I think I will redo these settings when I time it back up. The idle does suffer from it like has been said in there but going to give it a try and get it rolling roaded and maybe swap back come end if the year and rolling road it again...

Yeah me too but it looks like its made a difference, exhaust cam was pap on and inlet just tweeked a little. That's what I'm thinking about my current tool tbh, bend it to around 5-6 deg and use that for standard cams and then buy another for the race car.

Cheers for the reply Dan, more than comfortable doing the belt, have a read of my other thread in here, this one is mistake

I'm in the process of replacing the cambelt in my cup just now, I put in the timing tools before removal and the inlet cam was a fair bit advanced like so Knowing enough about engines to know its safe enough the amount its been advanced, I couldn't tell you how to play with cam timing to...

I'm in the process of replacing the cambelt in my cup just now, I put in the timing tools

Read the linked thread, all is explained. Everyone said dealer only for Cup tie rods. Part nos and where to find them are in there, just buy any old crap for non cups/trophy.

Another busy day, the car was playing ball today and only one broken bleed nipple . Broke down all the subframe, gave it a wash down ready for a paint and the new bits. Spot the difference, someone's had a little too much fun here. It's part of the reason for the strange handling. A...

Looks good, 15's need to have coilovers or cheap springs to look half decent. Yeah I'm decided on anthracite, save me cleaning them too much. 1.2's are a good all round wheel for any car and there not that expensive. Yeam mate can't wait tbh, another few of those days ahead before I go away...