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And this is what i mean about the state of the discs. This is the worse one, but as you can see on the outer rim, this is where i believe those clips have been scratching the surface? Do those clips have to be there?

So- was looking at photo below, which is nearside rear, after replacing with new pads, and wondering whether the clips have been put in right? Looks like both pad retenrion clips hit the brake disc surface? So gonna go back and have a closer look as the brakes squeal occasionally As you can...

Gave up with trying to swap the discs over, couldn't get the lower bolt undone. Tried again after soaking with WD40 and thought I had cracked it off, but it just slipped. Either going to try a new socket (Hex) , or a professional, or have a go heating the bolt up. Not sure So- ended up just...

LOL. Yes, have been to kwikfit b4 for a "free" brake and exhaust check They tried to tell me i needed loadsa stuff, including a full new exhaust system (Which the leak they couldnt find, was repaired when I replaced the cat converter with a sportscat). I still made sure I came outta there not...

should've tried harde with a pair of grips I spose= just worried bout completely shredding the head Reckon its never been undone in 100.000miles

I just got a rubber grommet for mine, bout £1 off ebay Jiggered if I can remember what size.... 13 mm.... something like that it will be on this forum somewhere

Yes, I tried sifting though the sizes to find the imperial below 17mm Found 16mm but that didnt fit Thinking of popping into kwik fit or something, get them to crack them all off, then wheels back on, home, then do the job

Yes- trying to remove cradle to replace disc. Didnt wanna take pads out, although they wobbled ok, in case I failed on removing cradle bolts, which I did Socket seems ok, as it sorted the top one, but a bit of room although the lower bolt just beginning to round off, have filed, and left to...

Purchased the rear brake discs fitted with bearing and ABS ring. they look the same. And pads. Went to fit it today, and am guessing the caliper hasn't been removed since date of first registration 18 years ago Just couldn't get the bottom bolt of the caliper holder off. 17mm and tried, and...

^ ^ ^ I take a tarpaulin and just throw it over the tools and spare wheels- very handy if it rains whether you are in a garage or not

Nice one I have a BTB exhaust on my Phase 1, AND just fitted a Sportscat too, but I have a pre and after LAMBDA sensor Don't think Ive got the "Ninja" system tho, as mine sounds failrly deep throat rumbly- and its fab :cool: We will have to compare exhaust sometime. LOL

Sounds daft: change of shirt- can get sweaty and having a dry one makes you ready for next sesh 10/20 litre jerrycan of spare fuel- you will be surprised how much u get thru

Yes, the Phase 1 needs the ICV access port

Mintexx 1144s on my 172, and lovem. No brake fade on track, though am just about to fit my second set in 18month. Front disc seems pretty good nick too Ive the joy of doing the rears too, as brake disc seems to be disintegrating

That's really nice. I love the shape of the Phase 1's, don't think I'd have a phase 2 unless its been modded to heck for the Track Quite jealous, although my Phase 1 is modded for Track - although not completely ripped

Yep, I have that saved on my ebay list. Have (As always) asked for confirmation with my registration number that they will fit

Realise its on old thread Anyone know the teeth on the ABS rear ring- ive seen both 44 and 48? Any links for cheap rear discs, with bearings and ABS rings for a Phase 1? Eurocarparts seem bleeding pricey on this item......

Changed speedo sensor ( 2 min job once you find it) Changed gearbox oil (Not as bad as I thought) Changed broken band clamp nr Backbox Fitted black sunstrip and Renaultsport decal Lots jacking up and down Favourite: Fitted "You are now playing Catch the Clio" decal on rear window :-)

Just doing my gearbox oil now- all drained As I only bought 3L of the ELF stuff, should I fill the remining 100ml with the ZX1 micro treatment oil friction reducing stuff ive got- which I use with engine oil? Some posts on here say there needs to be a bit of friction in the gearbox/

Are the newish PS4s as good as the PS3s. They were very good imo. Would use them for road use mind- getting some for my daily next time round

32psi in mine would make it feel like its on an ice rink, unstable I drop to 26psi hot

Was always a bit wary of removing the front bumper, but once done a couple times, its pretty straightfoward Its the bolts behind the wheel arch liners at the bottom that are the pig

Another for AD08rs here, although the caution is some tracks do eat them before the days end- meaning putting on the road wheels/tyres And in the (Soaking) wet didnt think they were to be pushed to the limit, so I take a couple of Uniroyal Rainsports with me nowadays, that can at least be put...

Realise this is an old posting, but thought I'd stick my tuppence in Recently had matched inlets fitted, and enlarged throttle body, and sportscat on my Phase 1 172 Was running 165 BHP a year or so ago, and will get up to Engine dynamics for a full stage 1 remap, then can tell you what the new...

Spent about 4 hours today, cutting 2 strips 3mm mild steel, about a foot long Then drilled 5 x 7/32 holes in it G clamped them up to my worst bent up sill (Front nearside) and then drilled holes though OEM jacking point ridge Hi tensile steel bolts, with washers either side and Nylock nuts...

yes. new wheels look fab

I had this sort of problem, which started on a track day and was a right pain Intermittent red light After lots thinking what to do, got a replacement key at one of those Timpsons places outside a supermarket (Only some of them do car keys check online) and that completely solved the problem...

Yep- I do use a trolley jack for the inner chassis box section, when I am wheeling off. and yes, have one of those hockey pucks with a slice down the middle- but I can advise that even with that, it still buckles the jack point over time (Ive used one about 2 years) My main concern is the MOT...

I know this thread is yonks old, but can anyone tell me that if you bolt in the box section, how is the weight distributed when jacking up? Is it just contained to the box section which is bolted to the original jacking point which would then take the weight, or does it transfer upward pushing...

Yes, me too- where down South?