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Cup setup needs the lot including the alternator so is way more expensive than pms but does away with the auto tensioner

If unless your wanting to go super low and need coilovers then I'd just replace with oem shocks. I've got a 1.4 06 and it's the slowest thing I've ever drove, no point making it handle any better when it takes forever to get to a speed that needs more stability.

Well I've just fit a big red refurb kit so fingers crossed it will be ok. All bled fine with no leaks, kit seems good quality. Wish I'd ordered some stainless bleed nipples though.

I love it, Looks awesome.

Thanks George. Bloody euros, that came up when I put my reg in.

Not compared it to the other side bit it was very tight going back in even with my caliper pushing it tool. I'll check the other side tomorow.

https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Renault_Clio_2.0_2003/p/car-parts/brake-hydraulics/brakes/brake-caliper/?133745031&1&c6fb4387f352b502228127f68c795a00c179f953&000048 Are these ok? Price seems reasonable with Halloween discount

Just noticed my front right caliper is sticking quite bad. Had the caliper off and gave the sliders a good clean up and also pumped the piston in and out a few times and then gave them a little bleed but they still seem to be sticking. What options do I have? Are rebuild kits readily available?

Almost there but ran out of daylight. 3 hours in and got the bushes changed, just need to bolt both sides back to the subframe and I'm done. Now I completely understand why this is said to be an absolute pig of a job.

Mine on cup dampers with sportlines handles great, however it sits too high at the back and looks a bit crap imo. I don't track the car so can't comment on how it handles on track.

So is kwick fit and they still managed to get my wheel an inch off centre on their first go lol

My tool kit is pretty good to be fair but I lost my deep sockets to the wife's tidying up, along with my camber bolts which never saw their way to the car! No probs, I'll get her up in the air tomorow and see how bad it is. Everything I read suggests it's an absolute arse of a job, but its...

Is that a hunter allignment or them lasers that every part worn tyre shop in the country has?

Is a deep socket a necessity due to the other end of the bolt poking through the nut too far? Or will a normal socket with plenty of extensions be Ok?

Got some lol. Anything else?

I'm going to put my new powerflex bushes in my steering rack at the weekend. Will I need any special tools or will regular sockets and spanners do the job? Will it make life easier if I had deep sockets etc? Does the subframe need to come down to get access?

The bit that's covered in pink stuff

Looks to be coming from the thermostat to me

I just burnt the inside out. Then used a hammer and chisel to get the outer ring out. Easy.

Half of the lights on my dash have packed in. Service, and esp been 2 of them I can remember lol

Are you buying from pms? When I ordered my 18mm from pms I asked them to supply the correct bolts at the same time, which they did, can't remember what they charged but I was only about a tenner extra

Link is in the thread called "standard top mount differences " a bit further down

Yeah it's terrible. Mines the unsilenced version though. I think the one with a centre section will be much more friendly

I wouldn't worry about the light but yeh it will be loud as hell lol. My ktec stealth does my head in with the cat in so I woudnlt like to think how loud it would be with a decat.

That's what I did but I was changing disks anyway.

I'd do the dog bone, gearbox and upper engine mounts if your getting a knocking.

Might not be helpful but if the engines been out have you made sure the earth strap has been put back on?

Ktec do a silenced centre section for the stealth but it's nearly 200 quid.

I'd just tackle it as it comes to be honest it's not going to be majorly different to a gearbox out job on any other car.

Sounds like most clios then, they are pretty gutless below 5k lol.