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Yep. Flap is missing. Mine came off as the clips holding it to the frame has rusted and snapped.

I think that will only Fit the new style top mounts so you need to check what's on there at the moment. It does look a little odd that, mine don't sit as high as that

Mine was quite obvious to the eye.

Could also be a bent beam or bent where the stub mounts on the beam. Mine was out pretty bad and I fixed it with shims from pms

Am I right in thinking the 172 cat is more restrictive so would benefit more from a decat?

I did. Can't say I noticed much of a difference to be honest.

Just use your standard exhaust manifold and cat and bolt it to the back of the new engine? No need to touch the exhaust system at all

Any motorsport places around Sheffield? All I've seen is the usual kwick fit tyres places with hunter.

Yeh that's probably my next thing to do, I've done all I can now. I just find it strange that it's only in an on power situation, of power or at a steady yspeed it drives perfectly straight

Well it wasn't that but at least that's fixed now lol

Guys. Just been having a look around. Nothing seems loose, no bearing issues, rods seem fine etc. The only thing I did notice was the front right spring isn't seated properly in the top cap. The dent for the end of the spring was at the other side and I couldnt shift it so I'll have to take...

Cup are a little stiffer I believe but other than that they are the same. The rears I think cup ones are also gas and a little stiffer, could be wrong though as the ones I just took off my 172 also seemed to be gas, but it could have had cup ones on anyway

Or a rad full of crap yeh lol.

Well like I said in my first post the first thing it could be is the thermostat is sticking shut or part shut not allowing water through to the radiator so the engine is running hotter than it should.

Sounds pretty normal to me other than it sitting above half way, all the ones I've drove sit bang on half. Am I missing something here? It will drop to the bottom with the engine off. As the engine warms up it will steadily rise. Turn a hot engine off and back on it will go straight back to...

Thermostat stuck shut or a faulty temp sensor would be my guess

Clutch kit is 166 with slave cylinder on Europarts and that's before weekend discount so trade will be alot less so your basically paying about £450 in labour. I'm not sure how long it takes on a mk3 but I did mine on my old 182 in about 10 hours (£450) hours laid on my back without a ramp or...

Just make sure you don't cross thread them and torque them to the proper torque, which isn't actually that tight

Where do you get the kyb ones and how much are they? Europarts don't seem to list any top mounts for my 172.

I take the filter off by hand and put it on by hand, never had one leak yet. the problem is when some pleb puts em back on using a filter tool and then their a pain to get off.

I use vmware player to load a virtual xp for my opcom and Peugeot planet. Would probably work on Clip too.

K9k is a diesel engine isn't it?

Ill double check these at the weekend but I did torque them before fitting as my wishbones have got pms stiffening plates on so it's a pain getting a spanner on the top bolts as the driveshaft is in the way.

Bearings are fine, no play. Could worn top mounts cause this? Like camber and caster changes under load on 1 side causing uneven tyre surface area on the road?

Wheel bearing?

Lol I guess turbo is the only way if you want driveability below 5k

What's the spec of the car mate other than the cams?

Could have flicked up off the road and be nothing to do with your car

I'd go with heater matrix. Absolute t**t of a job aswel I would have thought. They usually are.

the plug is behind the passenger side and contain connections for both lights i think. Im sure when i removed my bumper there was only the 1 connector block needed unplugging.