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I wondered about doing a guide but I figured it is such a critical job that maybe if you need a guide you shouldn't be doing it? But on the other hand I believe knowledge is power and what you do with that knowledge you have to take responsibility for i.e. if you use the guide and kill your...

I've searched the forum for the answer to this and the answer seems to be no :-(

http://www.fastchip.nl/media/doc/clio2/F4R_730.pdf You can get the cam locking tool for 40 quid on ebay. The access is dire. You'll need to fabricate some sort of tool or combination of tools to get the aux belt on/off as well.

Check you have the belt routed right. There is a diagram of the route in this manual. http://www.fastchip.nl/media/doc/clio2/F4R_730.pdf I did mine at the weekend, and found several possible routes (before I could be bothered to look at the above), one of which rubbed against the tensioner spring.

I thought Ktec were getting a RR this month?

After having one crash without having it recorded I've decided it's time to get something to mount a camera on. Any one got any recommendations and good places to get them? Thanks I'm thinking in car by the way.

Did they mention any damage to the valves/pistons etc from the timing being thrown out by the aux belt getting into the mix? It would be unusual if there wasn't any.

Air lock in the system?

Could be thermostat stuck open. Do your heaters still get a warm as they used to? If not I'd replace the thermostat for starters. Had a similar problem with the my BMW. New thermostat cured it. Not getting to temp on the gauge and heaters were not getting the car warm in the winter. It was only...

Like it says in the title ph1, ph2 and cup. I know the 182s are different. Thanks

My cup has heated mirrors. Steam comes out of them on cold morning - I think or is that my beemer I must check...

They weren't frozen when I started my journey at -3 but 45 miles later they froze up. Plenty of fluid left and it there is no way it should freeze as I have a winter mix of screen wash in. I'm surprised it is the engine that heats the nozzles, it happens too quickly in the morning for it to be...

I've noticed on frosty mornings that the ice melts around my washer jets on the bonnet while I'm de-icing the car. This is with engine cold, heaters on full, fan on full to windscreen and heated rear window on. Anyone know what turns these heaters on? I can't figure it out and my washers keep...

Are your sliders seized? Mine went rubbish when the sliders seized up.

Renault quoted me 130 front and 200+ rear. just the bumpers unpainted. If you have damaged any of the grills or furrings these are all separate and equally pricey. Get one from a breakers, with luck you'll get the same colour. You should b able to get the old one back on with duck tape an cable...

I got it off by cutting the belt and then unbolting it. It was seized, no movement until I undid A in the pic, then it moved fine. I have my own tool, made from a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter, I was pushing the right way. I've got a new tensioner and on that one C does rotate within B in my pic.

Hi Just doing my cambelt I couldn't detension the aux belt. See picture below do I need to slacken A in order to release the tension using the 3/8" square hole? It looks to me like C should rotate within B without slackening A. This is certainly not the case for my tensioner. I should add I...

Anyone know? I'm thinking not silenced decat. The Ktec stealth was 82db with std cat at my last track outing. I don't want to get a decat and find it's too noisy to pass.

140 is about the right price anyway for the Renault back box. The mid section is similar that's why people go for stainless ones - you can get a new one for 350 ish.

The 182 cat is only 200 cell where as the 172 is 400 cell IIRC. I guess that will give you a couple of BHP maybe.

I've seen this stuff in Halfords. I'm talking the Mobil 1 stuff rather than their own take on it. They brand it "motorsport" or something similar. Any thoughts on this stuff versus the equivalent 0W40 or 5W40? Is it just not necessary or is it even a bad idea?

So what's your plan to get it to 200 then?

Mines done 130k and goes max to min on the dip stick twice in 12k miles even when I got it at 24k it went max to min once in 12k miles. I've noticed on mine the inside meter matches with max level buts puts the service light on way before min on the dip stick.

Renault manual says 90Nm. 3/8 or 1/2 will do.

Should fill in some gaps http://www.fastchip.nl/media/doc/clio2/F4R_730.pdf

Sounds like they're working to me. Did you watch them do the test, did you see if their brake meter (or what ever it is called) registered anything at all? I'd get VOSA to call them, seems to have worked for others but if they say there is nothing at all at the rear that may keep VOSA happy...

Just some technical questions: CNC = Computer numerical control - This was my best guess from my online acronym searches am I right? Do AWT, Jamsport and AP all do it the same way? Are they typically done by hand or CNC'd like the head is at manufacture time?

Yep, with a bit of wood between the jack and sump to even the pressure on the sump.

Jack up the rears and see if you can turn them by hand with an assistant pressing the brake pedal. Hand brake off obviously. Should tell you if they work at all. You can typically just turn mine with the pedal hard down. I normally cable tie the compensator to maximum for the MOT. This at least...

I had wheel bearing like noise from a rear tyre wearing out of shape. It was obvious when you ran your hand over the surface of the tyre.