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mine sounded similar in tone to the one in Chris81's video, although it had a really nasty reveberation at high revs - almost sounded as though the back box was rattling violently against something (which i suppose it could have been - didn't bother checking before whipping it all off again)...

at the manifold side, you've got the bolt which goes into the cup (which goes into the mani) on the exhaust side, you've got the two different washers (can't 100% remember the order the washers go on in - not all that critical?), spring, spring cap, nut

engine mounts, top mounts, ARB/bottom arm bushes.. erm..

the fitting kits are generic (these calipers are fitted to lots of different cars) and you should be able to get one from a motorfactors fairly cheaply. pads shouldn't be too expensive either, but then you may as well have done the job yourself in the first place if you go to the bother of...

you've got to get it there though (not a good idea to drive it as it is, as you risk causing much more damage if you use the brakes) thinking on about the caliper, you'd also want to check that the edge of the piston hasn't been too badly damaged

someone please correct this if it's inaccurate, but i don't think there's a drain (unless it's one of the nuts on the rack body?) and think that the lowest union in the system is one of the feed/return pipes at the rack (which are really hard work to disconnect). if that's all so, probably be...

couple more? Tim Harvey reunited with his RS500: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j6fnrP92YOg love this one; great period vid of Gerry Marshall in Baby Bertha: http://www.youtube.com/results?search_type=&search_query=gerry+marshall+btcc&aq=f

does look as though the retaining bar's missing - check the other wheel for an idea of what should be there. i'd be demanding a new disc as well if the piston has badly scored that one. hopefully the caliper's OK

get some piccies up of the bits/what's left at the caliper mate

there's an angled bar, about 3" long that's used to keep the pads in place (have a look on the other side - it's at the bottom of the pad's retaining lugs). the lockwire should be on the inside of the bar - best check the other side to be sure that's been done properly). have heard of...

is the retaining bar still there?

depending upon how the shoulders differ (if they do), you might run the risk of snapping bolts and losing wheels, etc

not worth the risk if the shoulder of the bolts is different imo (are they different?)

think so - same as their current Stealth system

they seem to be; the Yokos fitted to the Elise/Exige (etc) are no different either yet another of the compromises in tyres like that

it's due to the compound of the rubber; fairly widely known consideration in the storage of competition tyres. never had problems through storing mine in the garage over winter though (ed. although it is particularly cold this winter). and you'd obviously have to be slightly nuts to have them on...

they'll not be bothered, although they are fairly expensive for change overs (Protyre)

i mail ordered some (stupid-expensive..) Blackfire after reading various recommendations and it is really nice - dead easy to use, glossy initially but becomes semi after the tyres have been driven on and lasts a good week or two; the bottle will last me years, so it's done once you've forked...

straight cut gears are v noisy compared with helical gears

personally, didn't like the tone or the volume of the noise this pairing created on mine

apols, still a little confused. i thought it was possible to tighten the track rods but, if you need new ones, could start by pricing them up at Renault as a 'worst case scenario'. others might know if they're available as a pattern part

that's the objective although i've no personal experince. could try a search or see what other replies you get. would personally be interested in learning people's opinions of how they affect both the ride and the handling, as there's a compromise between the two in any set up

front struts are coil over anyway, so never really understood the name but, setting them apart from most OE set-ups, they typically use much narrower 2.25" springs. object is in improving ride/handling compromise, as any other spring/damper change. some will have adjustable platforms...

think that's the bottom line - it's just that it barely ever snows in this country and that people's opportunity for experience is v limited. i remember watching an interesting film about (i think) the Norwegian driving test and the extent to which it prepares new drivers for snow. perhaps not...

lol at all of this don't eat the yellow snow!

i hate all this 'real man's car' sh*t; it's just embarrassing anyway, driver aids are good. they're safety systems designed to give the average user more chance of successfully dealing with an emergency situation. and that's good. it's inevitable technological progress. none of the cars...

check if they mean the track rod ends or the track rods. if it's just the track rod ends that need renewing, you could probably do it yourself (they're not difficult) for less than half that (including tracking afterwards)

don't know if it alters the geometry but it is always wise to retrack after having done anything to the front suspension/steering

that's shocking - serious failure:eek: i had a little look at mine earlier and noticed that the lower column in the cabin (as it passes through the floor) is splined, which tends to suggest that it is, indeed, in two parts. if so, looks as though you'd have to remove the column to pull it from...

it won't do the springs much good but it'd probably have been easier to knock the system off the decat whilst it was still bolted to the mani