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play in the universal joint itself? you'd have to check but it's possible the steering column is in two parts - ie. the U/J under the car might be detachable from the rest of the column in the cabin. if not, you're going to have to remove all of it don't know what's involved in removing the...

Bosal supply an identical one - part number 256781, about £5

it's a great read, this thread - almost looks like fun i've fond(ish) memories of having to fit new radius arm bushes annually, along with front balljoints and plenty of other stuff are your wheels 6x12s or 5x12s? i had a set of 6x12s on mine and had to lower it so much (to get the front...

there's some used-car-sales-joker trying to sell a tatty looking Mk1 Clipper locally with a screen sticker of about £3k - can't be worth anywhere near that though best bet would probably be to have a little look around to see if you can find private ads for similar age/condition those...

shouldn't notice any imbalance in normal driving. if pushed, the back end will be more stable/progressive than the front as track tyres aren't up to much until they're up to temperature (which can't be maintained on road). good idea to put the 888s on the front

i think i have the £35 one. it works and hasn't broken yet, which is about all i can think to say about it there are a few cheap ones about on the High St - Argos, B&Q, etc

was just thinking that, if it's still useable as it is, might save you the hassle of having to remove and then replace all of the locking wheel bolts

may have misunderstood but can't you just wait a week or so until you've a new key?

that's awful. how's that failed? presumably (as it's still 'OK' internally), it's been smacked? fail to see how anyone who owned that could not have realised the casing was that badly damaged before deciding to sell. it's described as an 'oil leak' but, come on, it must have dumped it all...

already all been said but think it's normal - the gap's just occupied by the mesh ring; if it were bolted up 'tight', the ring wouldn't be doing its job. can't use sealants either, as it's a flexible joint

drop the Trophy for a Cup? :quiet::quiet:!

what's the article in which they feature about?

sounds as though you're just going to have to wait. someone was once kind enough to leave me a note after having damaged one of mine; assuming it's genuine, it's a pretty decent thing to have done and you'll not do yourself any favours huffing and puffing on his answerphone

try searching on the GermanSwedishFrench and/or EuroCarParts sites guessing, £30ish

i've put Redstuffs in mine and they're much stronger than the OE pads once warmed. seem fine to me although, admittedly, haven't tracked them yet. had several sets of Greens on my last car and had no bother (road or track) although lots of people seem to struggle with them someone posted...

ask your Tech if it can be switched off via their plug-in software; sure i've seen that suggested as a possibility somewhere on here

is the battery OK? i don't know if it can also cause the problem you're experiencing, but a failing battery can cause the OBC to lose its records and reset itself everytime it's switched off/restarted

Icarus, meant to ask after the last time it was mentioned, does the Kangoo mount (itself) feel as though it's much stiffer than the Clio one or do you still think the difference is in the buffers?

decat; pros: slightly more go cons: more noise (could be a pro for some), smells of fuel, needs swapping over annually for MoT, insurance

from your first photo, the lefthand clamp is a Norma/Mikalor type and the righthand one is just an olive clamp you might be able to source a suitable olive clamp from an exhaust fitter but might struggle to find the norma/mikalor type (could try a specialist fixtures/fittings supplier - or...

does nailing yours on track clean them up?

as said, fairly common with this type of caliper but it's not really something you should put up with for long as you'll wear the pads down v quickly and might even have problems with the heat they'll generate if they're binding badly couple of things you could try doing (sounds as though the...

you only ever see carnage like that on the 'special' (..) days which are easily avoided

you slacken the TRE lock nut and wind the track rods in/out using the flats on them (or mole grips). needs to be done with the car on the ground/up on a lift

Camp corner's really satisfying when you get it right (obv. the quickest corner on the circuit - speed you carry through it and onto the straight is important for lap times if that's your thing) and it's always seemed wise to approach Quarry with something in reserve

try universal hobbies and norev - think they both do 182 models

i thought the conversion factor for PS/HP was divide PS by 1.014 to get HP? there's very little difference

have a look at the service booklet - it explains it all in there although it might not be all that easy to figure out as it's dotted about everyone forgets to mention it, but don't omit the inspection service - it's just as important as the fluid/filter changing stuff

i've a 1.75l Lifeline handheld that i'll mount on the rear seat base behind me for sprints and whatnot. they 'should' be serviced at certain intervals btw (mine's expired; need to check that out) are you competing in a series that requires a plumbed system or is it just for safety's sakes?

just had a quick look at mine out of interest - should be able to use grips, as mark123 (apols)