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I know Cliosport has a 3% discount but this is even better at the moment it seems theres a 5% discount on tyres they were the cheapest before hand there veen cheaper now. Code is BC121 It even includes for fitment I think just pain under £100 for two fully fitted tyres bargin IMO.

You should be able tell if its the intake does it still exist when your reving when the cars not moving?

There not amazing boxes they shoulnd't wine how many miles has it got might be worth trying to chnage the oil. Its usualy the syncros which go on them which is different problem.

Yep dead easy to fit. I'd forget using the Gaz stuff its all useless.

Yep all Clio Mk2 rear shocks are interchnagable but they are all a bit different thu will fit and are a close enough spec to be ideal.

Yu've got big wheel which helps make it look lower. To prove how low it is you realy should measure from the ground to the center of the wheel and take away the distance from the group to the bottom of the jacking point.

Stock ones will last ages they just fail. they should last at least 20k. Forget performance ones.

If it didn't have enough power it woulnd't unlock the imobiliser ever.

There no best Silklin pro 5-40 is a good choice.

Renault. £30 or so probably. Why not use bathroom sealant and seal it shut.

Get a little 9v battery and work out which is the supply one/two lines and work from there IMO.

Could remove the rubber bump and the lower adjsuter but for the fewmm plus Its not desinged not to plus the springs will settle. IMO no point, if you want to later when the springs have lowerd and the front say 2cm lower and you want even more then we can work on it but idealy there no need...

Yep its a great colour realy looks good I could imgaine it as an ID one instead of petrol blue having gone down well.

Up north somwhere I think for Chipwizards. Best ring Fred or Yoz.

Rears could go a bit lower but I'd prefere to leave the rubbers and bottom adjuster in place. If you wanted to go miles lower I'd get the dampers changed front and rear personally for my own happyness. At the front yep lower is possible say 1.5cm ideally maximum. Its catching slightly now so...

180lb torque not bad going.

Thats not true though Saab and Volvos are 250hp FWD and there fine. There a laod of 250hp+ FWD cars there loads you can do OK tracktion might not be amazing off the line but that what the accelerator is you cvan spin the fronts wheels in a 70hp car if you want. Meggy will be seeing 250hp...

Chipwizards. Dave Walker down south PMurry on here Yozzasport can do it

Nope all electric racks don't use fluid. Bearings sond the most likly problem.

Speedo sensor on the gearbox most lilly either its come loose the plug or the sensor broken. If it doesn't have the gearbox sesnor then its a cable to the dahsd most likly from the ABS syetm is loose check connectros behind the dash.

There still a bit more to go at the front didn't want to set it to low after all you have to try get down the drive plus its going to sink a fewmm or so. There still I think (need to check something first will get back to you for certain) another 7mm or so lowering at the back the front say...

Looks good i was hoping the back would go down lower I didn't want to set it much lower for a few reasons though.

£12 for the mtal key (you could have copy key made from a key cutters but same price as Renault only thing is Renault take a few days to get them as there special order from France.) plip bit is £40 and then programming its 20 minutes or so work usualy charged.

If you have a phase 2 mk2 then its unlikly you have that gearbox speedo sensor there are some early car swith it but very rare. Most likly its a connector on your dashboard thats a problem as the phase 2 (99.99%) use the speedo sensor from the ABS loom and since you don't have ABS issues its...

The Cup has a differnt setup to the others in the range http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=133900 Toe in out can be adjusted theres no ideal spec some like in some like out. Camber is none adjustabe realy unless you use correction bolts etc but if you need them to return to...

You could have just done a quick search 205/45/16

SOunds like your sunroods leaking which is common best idea is often to seal them up completly. Otherwise check the scuttle panle for missing/dislodged seals but that unlikly if the wheel is wet.

Clean the key for starters. The wiring and the sensor round the key arn't super regular failure points so get them checked if its not the wiring then its most likly the ring.

Firstly try cleaning the key. The sensor round the key fob is terriable its a common failure but the cables arn't much better so check both of them.

If you can start the engine 40 times then the fault will sort of clear the lights as the car things its fixed. But thats unlikly juist get a garage with the computer system to clear the fault. Then unplug the second sensor.