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Yeah, well it was in the dark when I did it, so had all the lights etc on too. I can always test it first with a multi meter to see if it is (or isnt) charging
No problems... If the alternator isnt charging you wont get far on just the battery, I got about 4 miles in the Mk1 lol. If you need the car for tomorrow bringing it up tonight isnt a problem, just drop me a PM
Yep its the same one... If you want it from him let me know. I know hes working every night this week but if you need it I can bring it up to you/fit it for the cost of fuel.
If the battery light is on, its probably not charging. If its not charging the battery will eventually run flat driving it... as everything needs power to work..
Is the alternator belt still fitted/attached? If so its probably the alternator...
What age/plate is your car? 1.2 16v? If its the...
Yeah as said plenty in it..
And yeah, earthed, so everything gets power. Although if the ECU isnt earthing the pairs of coils or firing the injectors in time it wont run... which it does not seem to be doing!
Will be lucky if his picks anything up I think as its not like an RSTuner, the data lines are different on the plug-to-ecu..
Would be ideal Jonny, although im not holding out too much hope to it shining any light on the matter, as the only thing it could come up with that we havent tried is...
Very very interesting - the O2 sensor fault in the first picture will have been from when we went to the rolling road day. We had to unplug the lambda as if it was connected it would missfire under load, once it was unplugged it ran fine... which was weird. I wonder why those faults are stuck on...
Yeah I was going to book one, but didn't want to waste my time going up there if they were going to turn round straight away and say 'f*ck off' with it being 2yr+ old..
I purchased it from the Trafford store anyway, so might have to check it out. Although I have no doubt a replacement...
Purchased my MacBook on 30th August 2008. Its a Black model with 2.4ghz Core2, 2GB Memory, 250gb HDD, etc. So its like 2 years and 5 months old, out of the 12 month warranty yes but I've heard a bit about these problems elsewhere...
Its pretty much been faultless, bar having a dodgy charger...
Welcome..
Plenty of good things (and bad) about the Mk1 F4R conversion depending if they have been done right or not, although when sorted they really are the best of both. If you need any information/inspiration there are quite a few that have been done on here..
Mine -...
Could be the emulator then! Ive had no end of issues with my ECU/emulator when I first did the conversion in 2008/9, but it was OK last year - so I hope its fine for good now!
Someone else I know with the conversion has also been having issues recently (the same as described in your first...
Yeah it probably has been. If you have a multi meter test the wires for the emulator, see if one of them is 12v when the ignition is on stage two. Test the earth also, it should give continuity to the - on the battery itself. If both of them are ok, the third wire should show 5v(ish) - if that's...
Yes you can just buy another emulator and plug it in, I did once as one of the pins on the small white connector had broken. This only applies if the ECU was virginised/decoded before fitting the emulator - who fitted it/did the work?
Easy way to test if its working is to check if the emulator...
Noope, I know which one you mean though. The 'blue' sensor that comes with the new plug/partial two wire loom...
All we've tried crank sensor wise is a couple of known working sensors (that run another 172 and run mine), along with two different engine looms... so there isnt really any reason...
Well, back to the same old problem I had with my car. Although this time, its not my car - I've tried everything I can think of (considering ive had this problem 10x over, and its worked fine since) - Just thought I would post up to see if anyone had any better ideas.
Its a Mk1 with a 172 Ph1...
Re: 1.2 Track car Conversion
Taken off as we had just swapped the radiator and put the coolant in, so was using the bleed screw on the side of the thermostat housing!