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Was fine for the past 10 days, never once went up the gauge etc.
Today I removed the old (original) braided earth strap from the chassis-to-gearbox (which was breaking away at one end), cleaned up all the surfaces and replaced it with a proper lead. The car seems to start much better/quicker...
Sit it in slightly sideways, I ran mine for a year like it and it was fine (Matteh and most others still do)...
Last winter I modified mine...doesnt need to be done but im glad it sits properly with the standard rubbers on now too...
Hopefully that will give you a bit of an...
If its been looked after it will be fine... I had a valver that had 20k of reciepts, on 175k... I drove it for 6 months and never had to touch it, though winter too. All depends on its past IMO..
on the other hand you could get a bad one and everything go wrong on it, like my grey valver...
Mine used to stick/not open enough until the engine/inlet was hot, then it would be fine. Might not be the same thing, but its worth finding someone local with a 172 ph1 and giving it a try before buying anything I reckon..
Does all the immobiliser, central locking etc... Although Ph2's use it for a lot more stuff with canbus etc.
Midge if you're removing it to use in the Mk1 it aint needed
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
haha. Ive f*cked RAC/AA off now, useless. Ive got seperate recovery cover now which will bring me back regardless, so im not worried!
No it hasnt lol, and it wouldnt be powerful enough to tow it probably! Tow it back with your toe? lol
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
Im not bothered TBH, it still drives n that, just makes some funky noises.
RR day this weekend, Anglesey weekend after. Then its getting put away for winter!
The loom ive got on at the moment is a twin lambda loom. The loom I originally used was a twin too with the wiring chopped off, so id guess my ECU is a twin lambda one too. All runs fine.
Probably needs the outer sill removing, then the whole inner can be replaced. The panels are not expensive, its just the labour that is.. If you try and repair from the inside the rust could be all the way along and you'd never know until the outer sill was removed. Everyone says N platers are...
I was going to say I'm surprised mine hasn't done the same yet, but I probably don't have as much engine movement running 5 mounts. The lower-front engine one I made seemed to make the most difference, taking a lot of the load off the top engine mount.
No, williams are designed for the wider track...
If you want to do williams (or in the case of my link, 172) widetrack, you need to ideally use Williams fit shocks..
Yeah and the starter solenoid wire. I did away with the brown/white engine bay connectors, my loom runs elsewhere with just the brown and black connectors under the dash inside so I just unplug it there. Although, the loom does not run through the normal hole as the cage is in the way
Probably just make it a bit raspier/tinnier... They rarely pop as far as I know, only when freezing cold and just been started mine does it at low rpms when you drop the clutch. Even full pelt all day long on track ive only heard one or two in the past - thats with an unsilenced exhaust system...
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
Lol, nah. Only thing left to try is swap the clocks really, some days (like today) its 100% fine, drive it as hard as you want and itl never go up, basically just normal how its always been. Then other days it can be off the gauge within 5 mins of driving...