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Thats whats happened to mine with a bolt in diff. Something has come loose inside, rattles internally on idle and I get an almighty screech when downshifting into 3rd :(
Still works mind, but it will need sorting over winter!
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
Thanks for the comment.
I have replaced the spark plugs with some new NGK PFR6E-10's also now, seems to run a bit smoother. I have been running cheapy Bosch plugs for the past 18 months (without a single issue) but decided to change to see if it made any...
Oh, I dont know what time they are meeting lol. Just thought they were getting to the services for 7.30, its 100mile from mine to there so around 1.5hrs, probably leave here just after 6
Who's taking the available place from the reserves?
Il be leaving mine early doors to get to Corley for around half 7 I think too, how far is it to TDF then?
Checked wiring for coolant temp sensor, all is well.
Fitted some new NGK's, and had the fuel pump out again. Swapped the actual pump unit with a 50k Williams one (as I didnt trust the 180k valver one that was currently in after swapping from the 172 unit last week). Given it a good drive over...
If you are going to go to the effort of matching inlets, you may aswell just get an RS lower and match the upper to it, or if you really want to perfectly match it - start with an RS lower in the first place.
The RS lowers are a larger bore all the way through compared to normal ones, Renault...
Ive got the OBD port wired up, but wont that just tell you the same temp that the sensor is reading (and displaying on the dash?)...
Anyway I acctually think it could possibly be headgasket/engine related, as when I removed the thermostat earlier the water that came out looked to have oil in...
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
Well...........
After swapping the starter motor a week ago for one I got from 172Ben, the car was starting a lot better. Really quick turn over compared to before so all was good. Well until today, and its back doing its stupid non starting on the key. Turn...
No idea, the radiator gets very very hot after a good drive, but it could be normal - as ive never had to check before, i dont know what sort of temp to the touch it should be etc...
Got no other means of measuring it really... Ive not tried without a thermostat, yet. Might give it a go...
Yeah, the standard one on the bottom of the pump housing which I checked when I had it out, was clean and seemed OK. Along with the standard Mk1 one 'in line' near the tank, replaced it around 4k ago..
Edit - Must add, the video above, I never went above 2.5k when driving at all, apart from...
Fitted a brand new coolant temp sensor today after the problem seemed to get worse a few days back, rising high then never dropping. Bled the system again and it seems to have made no difference at all... So I did a bit of a video. After the gauge goes to the top, it remains there for a while...
Ignore that, its usually where the regulator sits (on a Ph1 engine, you can probably see the silver regulator in my picture). On a 172 Ph2/182 it isn't used as there is only a single feed to the fuel rail, there is no return to the pump.
Quite possibly, I have a thick piece of solid rubber wedged down one side of mine which seems to have made it last forever. Less movement than a Vibratechnics mount for £free.