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Exactly like that^, goes even higher sometimes, off the gauge! Im going to swap the pump tomorrow and see if it makes any difference...

My coolant system is even simpler than most, as there is no heater matrix... Thing is too, its ran fine setup like this for years. Just drove it and the coolant temp seems to rise very quickly if you give it any sort of heavy throttle/load, then itl go back down again if I cruise it at 30mph in...

Il give it a try...wouldnt it affect performance with a lower pressure though? Im unsure if its a flow problem as this particular engine has been fine since it was first put in, its just all of a sudden happened without changing anything. Unless somethings broken off or a lot of s*it has...

Water pumps about 10k old, replaced when I had the engine out last... Although, there isnt much to break on them bar a bearing is there? Its just a shaft with a pulley on one end and fins on the other? Headgasket was brand new with a skimmed head about 10k ago! Unless its a dud...

Yeah, just standard ECU with one of the RSTuner maps on (been like that since April09 ish)... Although its funny you should mention the fuel pump (before I carry on its a 60k 172 Ph1 Pump inside a Mk1 housing) - I had issues with it at Oulton for the first time ever, which was the same day this...

Sounds exactly the same... Yeah new thermostat and ive tested both new and old in boiling water - they both open fine! Radiator about 10k if that, and never used anything other than coolant/water in it...

Rad Fan? Yeah kicks in as per normal, gauge on the dash will go down, then go back up again once its gone off. Thing is too, if you are driving and it goes to the top of the gauge, say after 30 seconds it will slowly drop again to around 3/4 then just rise after another minute or so......which...

Yeah, interesting. When I had the hose pipe in the top hole it was gushing out of the bottom, but it could be anywhere in the radiator I guess. When the coolant temp goes right up the radiator is extremely hot, never as it used to be I dont think, hmmmm.

How very weird, I have a spare so I might try swapping it. What can go wrong with a radiator apart from leaks though? Should have mentioned in the first post the coolant level is remaining consistent too, never drops/looses any..

Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project ...but I had a standard Valver with the original factory oil pressure sender on it - was 15 years old at the time and worked perfectly, showing normal cold and warm idle and the same with driving...... Either way it does not matter as the gauge/sensor Im...

In two years with F4R's Ive NEVER had a problem with air locks or the engine overheating, until now. At the start of the month I had a few weird issues at Oulton Park, where the temp gauge would rise up past the max marking on the gauge, then come back down again, and repeat. I wasn't sure why...

Well I think ive nearly had every possible problem in the book so far lol - Ive not had this like daniel does but ive been getting dodgy fuel starvation at times on track with a 172 pump....... Im not 100% sure if the lower spec models use a lower pressure pump, I doubt they would use one that...

Possibly, as it could be working at a lower pressure - so technically the fuel will take longer to get a good supply to the engine... You want 3bar or higher ideally. If not id hook up an OBD port and check for faults - Coilpack/other sensors can cause missfiring/chugging...

Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project Why is it screwed into the back of the block as standard then? lol They can be had cheap from RD/Merlin too, problem is I could never find one with two M14 female threads, it was always one 1/8NPT and one M14... I got another one to fit this sender...

Got all the full res originals if req'd

Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project Used the Pirtek 'man' that comes to the factory (hydraulics for the machines). It took him a bit to get hold of it as he had to get the right fittings, but was spot on when he did. You could also try somewhere like Hose Solutions..

Re: Mk1 Hybrid Project Cool - where did you get one from/how much? Yeah, the pressure sender is off a Mk1 - its usually on the back of the engine block drivers side. The thread is M14x1.5. The green oil pressure switch (for the dash) is the same thread, as is the hole in the block. If you go...

Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project Didnt replace it, didnt even know a replacement could be bought! Checked it and cleaned it up, then ran some fresh oil round it and fitted it. Everything seems OK after checking earlier, no leaks as of yet - hope it will stay that way! Nah I dont use the...

Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project That 15litres is for Adam... lol. Nah - just needs using for some time yet as its taken so long to get this far! I need a break for a bit, lol :)

Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project I put about 3/4 of a litre more in than usual, maybe a tad more. Il grab a pic tomorrow with the bonnet on, was dark by the time I finished earlier..

Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project Not much been happening recently, only a few bits to sort before the end of October which will be the last day of the year at Angelesy. Im waiting on another hub arriving so I can use the stub from it to leave me with studs on the front (as per a few pages...

There is a Renault 11 with one too! Although that Dynamic Service lot seem to have done it to a lot of cars...

As said, put your key in and turn it between position 1 and 2, push the little retaining lug down (after removing torx bit) and slide it out. The retaining lug will only push in with the key in a certain position, you'l understand it when you are doing it...

LOL oh dear. Leather cream effect FTW.

Shrunk..

Should be a good day!

Nah, its in the UCH under the glovebox. There is a wire from the decoder ring on the key barrel going into it, then a wire coming out to the ECU in the engine bay. The Renault tech docs explain the whole immob system, il see if I can dig them out. The ECU requires a specific OK signal (every ECU...

It is indeed a Mk1 dash, from any boggo spec Mk1 really

The immob system is all on the UCH by the way, all it does if the conditions are met (correct key etc) is send an 'OK' signal to a pin on the ECU... If the immob is active it wont let you erase/modify the ECU, so that would explain the guys computer not being able to do it, I had the same with...

Dont think there are going to be any days before the end of October unfortunately, and thats the latest I can get up there to run it more than likely :(