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Check for accident damage they rattle as standard interier wise.
Check all the electrics work.
Check o0il levsle some car s burn oil some don't its hit and miss.
The list of problems depends how the cars been driven a 100k car can have less faults thana 20k version if its been tracked a lot...
Waiting till your 19 won't drop much off your looking at a load of money make sure you get the policy in your name though to build up our NCB and if you do crash then then insurer won't try and get out paying as some have done when dads have been the registered main driver and the 20 yr old son...
Elephant are good but they don't understand modific ation you jsut say lowered 30mm or 60mm. They can get a bit wierd refusing certain mods (I was refused 60mm lowering) and the price can be a bit high if you stick a few modifications on.
Liverpool Victoria arn't keen on mods they used to be...
They will have tested the car on the Uk roads the setup has been desinged around the fact we buy over half the Clio RS. The cars are never spotted as they will be heavily disguised and possibly tested at wierd hour of the day or made to look like other cars.
Testing at the ring is a superb...
Wow there going to test it the be a nice. They could have done with taking the 182 there or if they did take it there take note and do something about issues raised after driving the ring. Or they need some better test drivers (any volunteers?) who can push the car and find problems.
Sunroofs...
Best buy a whole GTT as you'll swop loads of bits. Buying bits seperate may end up costing a fortune and take some time.
Its the day and night Mk1 CLio mounts you ned to use unless you want to make some yourself.
Just to give you some ideas of front end weight
1.2 540kgs
1.2 16V 565kgs
1.4 16V 653kgs
1.6 16V 680kgs
1.5 dci 610kgs
172 660kgs
Ok weight depend on specdoor numbers etc these are mid range rigures for these engined cars but its...
The difference can depend there are some quick Cups and there are some quick 172's some engine are just more powerful than others due to manurfacturing tolerances and bedding in processess.
Personally I'd say there was very little in it the Cup might feel a bit quicker as theres more noise...
A chnage of cam to get the full gains will require a remap to up the fueling and this is easy to spot from insurers points of view even these supposed hidden ones arn't hidden insurers are wise to this way of geting hidden extra hp etc and they check these now as if they don't have to pay out...
I'd just get some good quality normal road tyres and work from there. Slicks etc are good but wait for the wet and they snap quite hard there little margin for error.
I'd get some conti's personally as I like them but F1's are supposed to be superb.
Best talk to Andi@GDI, BenR, or Yozza on here about the kits they make/ are working on. Modificatins arn't cheap though for an extra 100hp your looking at a bill of £9k or more I'd think, or a load of NOS which will still cost a fair bit and is only short term.
The cam wouldn't make any extra power you need true aftermarket ones.
Best modification value wise is to strip it and coilover it. OR get a 172 engine grarbox suspension brakes etc for £1.5k + vat from j3ned on here.
You have a 1k/ 1 month tolerance so yep you can leave it till 25k at the latest. Any longer and you may be asked to pay contribution to warently work which wouldn't have occured if you had had the service done at the correct time.
£200~250 I think.
Not much you can do supply your own oil...
The kick isn't that noticable on a RR graph realy. Its only due to engine mapping and the VE of th cams is a bit better.
Noting much you can do a remap would help but don't expect a massive improvemtn some intake and exhaust work would help.
Unplug the black wire from the seat belt.
Make sure you plug it back in when your wearing no harness though as the airbag sensor uses knowedge of if you have your belt on when the airbag etc fires so if you don't belt up and have a crash the airbag will injour you as it thinks your belted in.
I take its a Mk2 CLio if so your looking at £40 or so for the remote central locking £12 for the metal bit and £50 for programming the keys I think from memory.
You can drive to a MOT test center. The only thing is it has to be a pre booked MOT test.
The other way is to get somone with trade plate to put them on the cars and after a short safty check the cars covered under the trade plates.
Heres my car lowever a supposed 60mm on Spax RSX coilover (more like 40~50 front and 60 back). Distance form the arch to cente rof the wheels was 300mm at the back and 310 at the fornt.
I'd go for both springs and dampers personally its much better IMO. Plus you don't have the worry about upgrading to better shocks later on.
Dampers for the dci's, 1.4/1.6 are all the same spec realy even the 1.2 is the same realy. Some manurfactureers make different spec suspension setups for...
I'd chaage the oil ASAP then chnage it ever 6k ie between ever service.
The stock stuff isn't very good if you drive hard use Millers 5W-40 or Silkine pro 5W-40.