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So he's doing the job for free? Yeh, the tools are 150% vital that they are genuine. Not just the cheap laser equivalent. There are 3 tools that are needed, most garages use 2.

Give you an idea, parts cost more than £250 for genuine items if you include the dephaser.

Nottingham, go straight to diamond motors.

Put it this way, I've yet to see one done by a local garage that I haven't had to correct. People do not know how to do these properly, and the correct tools cost best part of £150, so he won't be buying them just to do the work. If it helps, I charge £425.

I didn't think yours was that loud lol

If its to my personal phone I reply "won't be too much" just so I can be a vague as them lol.

You feeling alright Simon?

Re: Help with clio 172 loud noise and bad shake & vibrate drive shart wheel bearing ? Its potential someone has fitted the wrong driveshaft

Bah, I was going to say I'd have them lol

Me too, I get certain traders asking if I'm alive via whatsapp ;) then we end up doing business deals at like 11.30 pm lol

You should be able to weld a nut to it and undo it like that.

It's worth getting it checked rather than having blind guesses.

FLOL!!!!

How much bolt is left? Has it sheared flush with the beam?

Decatted single box stealths are crazy loud.

Lambda is another good shout, personally I'd be putting it on clip to see what the readings are before leak down test

Could be a number of things really. Leak down test etc would be beneficial.

I say around 2 hours to do it. This allows for bolts to round off etc.

Don't do that, it'll still leak. A decent clamp with some decent silicone and it will be fine. No point in Bodging it with stuff like that.

As said really, get inventive with 2 90' bend silicon hoses and put it behind the passenger headlight. You should be able to do it for under £50.

Lol at the gunk story...

Your Subaru noise will be because its turbo charged. You cannot get the noise on a clio without fitting a turbo kit etc. Air filter, an open cone can loose power due to it being located near the radiator. If you get inventive with a few silicone pipes you can relocate it to behind the...

It certainly makes for a good laugh.

It's certainly between this and the cambelt con OP.

Sharkey is also selling a set of ktr ITB's I believe.

I've just seen I wrote back half. You'll need the front half, and probably 2 push fittings. The rest are t20 screws.

Because they are longer than the lower model items. Parts places don't do them as there isn't enough demand in them.

It's a genuine only part that's why.

You've taken the head off, but not confident in doing the belt?? You taken the belt off so your already practically doing the belt already. Retensioning a belt is very bad practice. Especially if its a very old one.

Yes. You'll need the driveshafts too