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just change the stat, it's an annual service item IMO, bit of an issue with the seals falling apart too

3 common issues, and a couple of less common ones. first there's a speed sensor earth that goes to the back of the dash clocks, if it's corroded or broken it confuses the ECU. then there's a sticky idle control valve, remove, soak in brake cleaner, the lubricate well with wd40. Thermostat, if...

it's the INNER track rods ends (part of the track rod) that you need to be looking at. It's worth looking at the bushes that mount the rack to the subframe too. I've seen a few recently with "clean" marks on the rack where it's moved side to side in the bush

used to be meets regularly, isn't really anyone designated to do it anymore

dont think i've ever had to look

shagged lambda. Easy to tell by plugging in

maybe he's just being realistic :p

really like that apart from the ken sticker on the boot. even seems to make good of the ph3 lights somehow, and they're normally horrid

Nice, a local :) Always liked Monaco on a 172

check the condition of the idlers and ll the pulleys to make sure nothing is going to slice anything again, but in theory it should be fine to just fit a new belt and a new fuel line once the alternator bolt is re tightened

again..only if you fit them one at a time and fully tighten them without letting them settle first. The solid mounts are good, they dont suit everyone though. up side is you wont be changing them in 12 months when they're knackered again

depends how it's wired. A lot of installs just used the standard fuel pump relay and leave the stock ECU triggering the fuel pump take a look at the wiring loom under the fuses and relays. I've seen a number of these over heat and partially melt, normally down to corroded terminals

there's a second aux belt if you have aircon. this does have a tensioner.

a few questionable bits on it, but it's a tidy car. Also it's better than Gaz's grey one isn't it james ;)

my understanding is that if it's added long term (ie added to MID) then you'd be covered. I'm only covered for SDP use on my own vehicles reg'd in my name. my car is a private vehicle in my name.

it will be the teardrop shaped rubber gasket under the inlet plenum missing or dislodged

as above, genuine really isn't that expensive an option

sounds like dephaser pulley (vvt). if you have a look thorugh this section, this subject is very well covered

seen that before a few times. long nose pliers have done the job of pulling the remains out most times. New leads needed ideally (which means a new coilpack on that car IIRC)

probably needs a general service, clean up the throttle body and idle valve, and stick it on diagnostics. You're only down the road, I'm away next week but I can fit you in with flexible hours

I'd only fit avons for someone i hated, made of granite. I never rated Eagle F1's anyway really, although I'm told the asymetrics are better than GSD3's Giev some Bridgestones a go if you want really good tyres

it's french, it's clearly homesick

you wont get track capable coilovers for that budget (well, not if you drive hard) but if you want it more for road use then I have a set of vmaxx that have 2 weeks use on them that you can have for a very good price

60mm is quite a drop for standard shocks, they're not likely to last a long time like that

first thing i looked at ;). It's not bomber spec

I sell a canems ignition only ECU which will run off the standard crank trigger pattern so you wont have to change the flywheel, or retrofit a trigger wheel on the crank pulley. Let me find some details for you

who?

you what?? for a crane? I can barely find one for more than £140, and there's dozens on there for under £100

or "dogging" as its better known, LOL