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rears i agree with completely, biggest waste of time ever. I also thought that about front, but i adjusted up and properly fitted one to a williams this week and it makes a massive difference. Pretty surprised....

didn't read a word i typed did you....BELT THICKNESS!!!!!!! if you're using thin belts it'll be ok, but most non gen belts are too thick

yeah really helps pushing harder when the tensioner is on it's stops.

Might have a 13mm hex on it instead of a 10, k4m uses 13s

10w40 is fine

Why make life hard? Source the right bits and do the job without hating the car

Half hour to refit the front end, much easier to just leave it off.

1662 is genuine. Non Renault are normally a bit thicker so need extra length. Non gen listings say 1660 but its not worth the aggravation. 1663 or genuine always

wheels sound like they'll be fine to me, depends on the lowering springs and how stiff they are (lots of bounce meaning rubbing is more likely) Easiest way to sort out engine is to use everything ph1 apart from the engine. keep the original loom, fit the ph1 plenum and tb etc, and the rest will...

if mounts are ok, look at the exhaust flexi join. If the gasket becomes very worn the springs on the join become slack the joint pulls apart under accel, then clunks back together

doubt there's anything on the shelf, but depends what the pipe is like. which pipe is it? get a picture up

dont know if ITG do a dished backplate, but you need enough depth to clear the 90mm trumpets, which is you were using the pipercross sausage, would mean a 50mm dished backplate. They come as un cut blanks so you need to do a fair bit of cutting and measuring

jesus christ that hachi is the f**king nuts!!!!

Get a 6pk1663. Shorter than that will never fit

Don't worry in the slightest about the gasket. Never actually needed to replace one, re used then many many times.

Only for their tools rob, for most other stuff they suck.

Mk1 gauges display fiction anyway. More gauges just increases paranoia most of the time

general rule, 1-2 bar warm idle is healthy, 3-4 bar at 4k oil wants to be similar to water really 90 degrees C is happy. over cooling your oil just means your not protecting the engine. Some modern oils are very good at staying stable to high temps. Silkolene is good to around 140degress C

depends what you're doing really. i use mine all the time, but that's on torque sensitive bolts like bottom pulley, bearing cams, wheel bolts. you need more than one size to cover everything too.

I rate Draper stuff also, my 3/8th set lasted me years until i broke the on/off switch on the ratchet. I still use the sockets

the process of matching using a CNC machine doesn't necessarily make the matching better than doing it by hand, it's just a fast, and very repeatable process. Only the lowers have ever been CNC'd by anyone, the upper is normally either not done, or matched by hand anyway

I dont think you can beat Halfords for occassional use tools. I often need a single odd socket and halfords always has what i need

Can't really post prices out of traders sections. I'll drop you a pm. I'll be putting prices in my section fairly soon also

yes

string this conversation together. engage brain, have realisation moment ;)

yes i do. fitted only though

varies depending where you go. call/email/pm me for a quote if you like

going by your location, the ONLY place you should consider is Birchdown

best thing would be cams and a map really. Piper 270s are about the best value for gains given. You'll need adjustable pulleys and a setup to get the best out of them. Paddys works pretty well on standard pulleys though.

Just Beanie that i know of on that list