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the 182 upper WILL fit. Requires one hose take-off blocking, and you can't fit one bolt (insignificant). Not that it would give you an improvement on a cup. Matching would be the way to go

totally agree on the poly bushing. Collars are an upgrade, but only about a 3rd as good as full polys. Full poly bushed subframe is the best upgrade you can do to a 200sx

might be worth a top end rebuild. Give me a call :)

tricky one. I've seen a number of 182 cats get a lot of cells blocked by contaminants, but never had a problem with 172's

i think you've got a lambda sensor problem. Probably damaged when the cat was removed, they're quite delicate and I almost expect to need to replace them whenever they're removed

not really unusual I personally think it's a difference in the dyno you're seeing (calibration or some such thing) and the car's as it ever was. Worth checking your cat hasn't collapsed or been damaged/blocked though

just unbolt it, and twist it slighty to get it through the gap

same dyno? same weather conditions?

:)

LOL!!! do WHAT!!!!

it would have bent by just trying to get the cams into alignment. Piper uprated springs

yup. i was a little surprised, the exhaust cam was locking up so removed the cover. thought i'd see a rocker come off, which one had, then did a bit of a double take

same way you put all the lifters upside down LOL Should all be sweet now :)

in 10 years, i've heard of that once, and it was on an s13. I've done a lot of subframe bush changes and never had issues. Just wire brush off the end of the threads and give a quick WD40 spray and they'll be ok

5-6 hours labour. parts are about £70 IIRC so you're looking around £350 of the top of my head

Fixed ;)

wouldn't bother. Just do an oil change with quality 5w40- fully synth oil, and see if it makes a difference. If not Its probably your dephaser pulley as lifters on these engine aren't an issue

sounds like the cam timing to me.

the head is the primary difference between each

i was 6 weeks off 20 when i got my first hot hatch, and TBH, i drove it like a complete prick. That was a 1.9 205 gti, which by some miracle i still own over 11 years later. When i first got it i thought it was the fastest thing on earth, now I'm more realistic about the modest power, but if i'd...

i'll gracefully withdraw let you be happy with what you've done, but please dont give bad advice like using cheap tools

I would have said more like 20bhp losses at that level

i'm not trying to scare anyone, I'm saying, from specific experience, use of the non genuine tools leads to incorrect cam timing, no matter who's using them. my point is, you dont have the specific experience to make that recomendation for this engine, so should defer to those who have it...

you've done 1, i've done around 200 ;) a large number of which are rectification jobs

it's no better or worse because people still apply guestimated loss figures. Hub dynos do tend to give an "at the hubs" figure that's a lot closer to the flywheels figure. Often this is forgotten and normall rolling road loss numbers are applied. for example, if on a rollers you're seeing...

bet it's wrong

Read this http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?510521-cambelt-problems-%28local-garages%29 i'll put £5 on them having s**t locking tools

there might be a sticker on the cambelt end 730 is ph1 736 is ph2 738 is 182 take some pics tbh. If it has CNC inlets it's off a sport regardless

it's a chadil F7R 714 manifold. the ports are the same as f4r

i wouldn't rule out new genuine pads tbh, paired with new disks and perfectly working calipers