Search results

looking lovely as ever :) engine cover would require a bit of light trimming and move a small thing or 2

all i can think is maybe the idlers were fitted with the spacers wrong?? the lower idler is meant to have a thicker spacer than the upper one. that pulley looks like the belt wasn't central. does it spin ok?

I try to allow 1mm minimum. Time up and run through from around 25deg BTDC to 25deg ATDC then check the playdough. The worst point for contact I've seen is the edge of the valve cut-out on the inlet side, but that varies by piston manufacturer. We tend to avoid block skimming if possible TBH

yeah use playdough, i'd lock the cams then bring the pistons up to TDC myself. I find a borescope is incredibly usefull too

no With Cat 422s the inlet valves are open at TDC by more than stock (other cams do too, but 422s a lot more) You have to check very carefully to make sure there's always clearance

I think what they're refering to is the change you would see on a keyway'd engine. This would ordinarily throw the cam timing our by a notable amount. That's the huge advantage of fully floating engines, you get the timing events in the right place no matter what the deck height. That's of...

yeah kind of, but there's a 1 way valve in there too. You can buy the valve without the bottle, but they dont seal as well unless they're submerged

awesome spanner twirling!!!! bargain price too Oh, you mentioned using a 172 flywheel. The trigger pattern is different on these, so you wont be able to do that if you keep the stock ECU :)

EZ bleed is a great piece of kit. I like these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/One-Man-Brake-Bleed-Bleeding-Tool-Kit-Bleeder-Person_W0QQitemZ120410724102QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Measuring_Tools_Levels?hash=item120410724102&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1689|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318...

they can be re-machined, but it's not at all cheap and i'd avoid doing so if at all possible

pretty sure it is a standard one mate :) They're a sport cat as standard

one of those issues that's hard to tell without seeing it, but something is seized/jammed. Could be an issue with the caliper sliders, or very possibly the pads are excessively tight in their seats and need lightly filing to be a perfect fit

correct not last time i did one, which was just before christmas

even more gutted i couldn't make it now :(

none of the above. wouldn't touch drilled ever, crack-tastic and pointless. Grooved can work, but there's a lot on the market that are designed for aesthetics. Brembo HC discs (just plain) work just fine. The disk and pad compounds/material is what matters

FMP_s old set? properly amazing setup. I know what Fred means about normal AST setup but IMO he's going the wrong way. The rear needs stiffening, not the front softening. You achieve a similar balance improvement but the reduction in roll by stiffening makes the whole thing more confidence...

yes. That's why i have 2 :D

ph1 grande so it's 8v :)

different bolt pattern as it's a different block

no, very different

not in that condition ;)

says at the start of the vid ;) stevo172-rwd. it's not quite like in the vid anymore

still a clio!!!! doesn't start at mk1 again just by having a different engine :dead:

they're BOTH mk2 clios ;) there's no mk1

generally prefer ph1s but the ph1 v6 is not a dynamically good car

worn pad down to metal. might get aways with just pads if you change them IMMEDIATELY, but look at the back of the discs before you do that. the back side of the discs always wears first on clios

if you're happy to drive it it's all good. just remember, buy cheap = sell cheap, so the4 car will still be worth less than the equivalent when you come to sell

does NOTHING to insurance premium. Well worth fixing one with light damage if you can do it well and make a saving overall

nice Kappa slappa :D

lovely!!