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Re: Mk1 Hybrid Project looks a bit like the whole surface of the belt has been rubbing....looks melted

if you change pad compound it's always best to go for new discs or they wont work to full potential. Pad material gets impregnated in the disk surface. A simple set of Brembo HCs is under £60

i've had split boots work fine, and also had them fall apart in a few weeks. The CV joint is held on the shaft with a circlip so can be removed to put a new boot on. Shaft has to come out and be put in the vice for this though really as the CV is a tight fit on the splines. Stretching a boot is...

they take air straight off the hot side of the rad though. shocking

I quite like that. Should do pretty well at getting non-heated air

there's a pressed metal clip that's there to hold the nut on assmemby. it bends and the nut spins. just prise it out with a screwdriver then use a 16mm swan neck spanner to hold the nut. Happens on nearly all of them

Having driven in the wet, yes it's not as grippy, but in relative terms it's still good. Walked all over lots of E46 M3s in the wet at Snetterton when they'd been a fairly close match in the dry.

ROFL. Maybe for uber DIY, not for going it properly. I dont think they're over damped, I think the road kit is a little under sprung for the track. would IMO be more like what you're trying to achieve. I prefer the back to be stiffer too so I know what you mean with regard to that. The fact...

I like it without TBH. just go lower

Re: Mk1 Hybrid Project that sucks :( Headbolts will be fine to go again, they're not stretch bolts, and you know they're new and not fatigued or corroded. Head gasket set should be cheaper than that, doesn't need to be genuine. If you still have the old valves just get them re-cut at less than...

no damping adjustment though agree :)

It's on R888s so it doesn't really slide except in the wet. Had it tri-podding round Llandow. Got the rears a lot firmer than you though. Max damping at Llandow, then softened it up by 5 clicks for Snetterton. Definitely needs stiffer springs for track work. The time attack car was easier to...

I'll be in :) we can talk it all over when you're in, but yes it's compatible

Not yet. Ours were an early production version before a stiffer setup was spec'd. Changing a few things on the car over winter and the spring rates are one of them. Dont even know if we're changing the damping yet TBH

that's the one we showed you ages ago mate :)

Proper job!!!!

defensive lol wasn't pointing any finger, and was refering to what i thought I remembered being your preference (hence the ??) and i said a poor setup, not H&R are poor ;) edit: not arguing, constructive discussion would be a s**t load more helpful for those who havn't setup suspension...

I've had very similar. Basically you have taken out a credit agreement with the finance company. This should have been cancelled and a new agreement made as they normally can't adjust them (shite format of the type of loan). Fluxs fault, they get paid by the finance company so they've pocketed...

you also prefer an arse down stance IIRC (??), which isn't condusive to traction out of corners FYI the stiffer spring option is noticably better for the track, and not worse, the softer stuff is for the road, and it does its job well. I've removed a couple of poor H&R setups and replaced...

also hugely changes the whole drive of the car, lots more torque!!

something along those lines :) Larger TB works best in combination with raised compression, cams, and re-worked head and inlets

Only way you'll get an answer worth listening to is talk to people who have owned both. I know a few people who have had both and they've gone back to another clio after the scoob because they've been disappointed. Having owned both yourself you're in a better position to decide for yourself...

Quite proud of that one, though it was primarily a race/track car not a sit and look pretty car ;) Demo car is being played with again and we're going for a VERY clean un-cluttered bay, nothing un-necessary left. More power in the pipeline too :D

yes

It's not really something you do on it's own. Our "built" engines are balanced, and it's calculated into the price. :)

Complete turnkey kit which includes EVERYTHING, including full instructions is less than £2500+vat (some price variance for ph1 and ph2 cars) from us (GDI) Website is down for price and VAT updates so i can't check the exact figures and i dont have them here. Best to give the office a call on...

only the wire length is different though

a straight flush with bog standard DOT4 will make a nice difference to most. ATE blue is awesome for the track

172/182s are prone to the clips on the boot breaking. The boot itself is plastic not rubber so splitting/tearing isn't normally the problem.

will be for a fan switch. Rad specialist we use supplies bungs for things like this when a rad is multi application, you might get lucky if you ask the place you got the new one :)