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maps been altered to take that leak into account. trouble is, if you fix the leak to regain the power at the top end, the map needs re-doing. shitty stock ECU

swap lambda for the post cat one. you'll get a brand new one with your ITBs soon anyway :)

speechless

crap tyres? icy road? going too fast for the conditions and lifting off round a bend? combination of the 3?

as i said on the phone earlier, probably lambda sensor. Seen loads fail on 182s recently, odd. Easy enough to check out on diagnostics when you bring it down :)

Was my initial though, but not if it lets you rev past it

if it wont idle without the pipe, it's sucking air in thorugh the carbon canister, probably blown a 1-way valve inside that and that's your leak. Your map will be well out if it was like that when it was done

oh dear, it's relying on an air leak for idle air. start the map again

not quite the same though mate lolol, you put the engine 9 feet furthur back

why not just ditch the canister and the pipe? less clutter and even tidier

well it's flagged the lambda as a fault, so that's got to be the culprit, sounds like a wiring fault more than the sensor itself though, intermitent wire break or similar. Holding back will be due to fueling being massively out (probably very lean) when in closed loop

looks like the bend has stressed the metal in the spoke aswell as the rim. also if you look between the 2 spokes the rim is flat on the inside. well fucked

you can, but dont. Always replace shocks as an axle pair

which one? the one to the servo?

my take on it is, if there's nothing actually "wrong" ie noticable, or detectable with a compression test then go ahead, but keep in mind you may have to do some work in the not too distant future. You have to take into account that it's a road car and not a race car, so every last half hp isn't...

1.8 16v would be my choice, the F7P is a much better engine.

couldn't agree more with that. Never known an issue with grip even in the wet, but the wear on them is massive. Bridgestone RE-040 for me (might be an old number actually, not had to buy any for ages)

I know people who've fitted red techniclutch clutches that wont take standard power (not clios BTW), so i dont think they're stock re-painted. Cheap chinese tat

techniclutch??

past the standard ECU capabilty IMO.

K-tec look after your car now dont they? Spoken to them at all to see what they recommend?

yeah, it's a quick 1st port of call test really, takes a couple of minutes rather than dismantling to do a pressure test. I've seen a few splits that only open under pressure too, so I know where you're coming from

every turbo F4R with standard ECU that I've seen has done it randomly. All been fly-by-wire that i've seen. Dont think the late stock ecu likes boost TBH. no experience of a turbo ph1.

Torque should still be good even with the power down, and that's what makes a car fast. Does sound very much like a boost leak. nice easy test is get it running and spray some brake cleaner at all the joins, if it revs up when you do this you've found a leak.

2 hours pretty much on the nose. bumper off, no need to touch the headlight

jesus!!! orange advised me to reduce my tariff, AND gave me a loyalty discount (7 years) cos i wasn't sending anywhere near all my free texts. £25 p/m FTW. Wouldn't touch o2 after seeing how they treated my ex......saying that maybe i should thank them

new cup line is expensive (!!!)

not much. A mate gave up on his valver engined volvo as the gearboxes are cheese

buy a cup one, or have the old one cut and re-swaged by a hydraulic hose company

yes, you need a new line on the high pressure side