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yeah, pretty tight though, not easy to remove without bending it.
magnet might work if you can get a small one (i have a few but they're all bigger than the tube). Worst case it's sump off, which isn't really that bad but it's a big-ish job for just getting the dipstick out :(
probably a lip on the disc has worn away part of the new pads very quickly. Have you looked at the back of the disc as the front face can often look perfect but the back is totally screwed
chill your boots and stop taking thinks the wrong way. I run a Phormula KS3 knock meter, an Omori EGT gauge and various other early warning meters so I do know what's necessary on a highly tuned turbo car. I just regard this as it is as fairly mild in the boost it's pushing so it's fairly on the...
kind of agree, but there is a difference. The outlet side of the standard 182 cat is TINY. I've seen quite a few blocked 182 cats recently too, looks like they're breaking up and some cells collapsing on themselves.
shouldn't need it if it's been mapped right. Normally good practice to reduce boost slightly for the track becuase of heat soak, but this is fairly low boost anyway so debateable if it's necessary IMO
no 2 sets of rollers are the same anyway, Dynodynamics are regarded as being the most consistent generally.
People get far too tied up in peak figures anyway, area under the graph is where it's at.
the single body is exactly that, it's one throttle body that replaces the standard one while retaining the plenum.
Modifications are limited to make the ITB kit fit, certainly you do not need a different radiator. We're testing a shorter rad very soon though, it's a quality part but we need...
dont waste money making it look like a 172. I recon buy bits you could put onto a 172 if you got one in a year or so. Get good suspension and brakes and live with the fact a 1.2 is a good car for a 17 yr old :)
the point you've missed is that it's on over-run. If the AFR is too rich you're cooling the EGTs so you wont get flames you'll just get a puff of black smoke. leaning out fuel and retarding the ignition on over-run is basically how it's done
not really what i was saying, it's not really why you re-map, but it's something fun you can throw in if you know how and where to adjust while doing the map.
Exhaust size I can see being open to a lot of debate. F4Rs do like a fairly large exhaust, but IMO 3.5 is way too big
you might have seen some that have been mapped specifically to pop and flame. It's just some simple map trickery but if you know what you're doing you can fine tune how much it happens quite accurately
hope you mean 2.5 inches !!!! pops, bangs and flames are down to getting the exhaust hot (high exhaust gas temps) and rapid variations in ignition timing on over-run. dificult to manipulate without being able to alter the map. Some setups will run the exhaust hotter so be more likely to flame
Should try some Mintex F4. put them on the GDI demo car for recent track day and OMG!!!! Utterly gobsmacked at the stopping power with these fitted to wilwoods with Brembo HC discs