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soarer if it was a v8.....but it's not. the Trueno is really cool, dont worry about the lack of power from it, you'll be laughing too much every time you drive it to care
he already has ITBs, Omex, cams and headwork, all that's lacking from the normal F4R N/A tuning route really is high compression pistons and forged rods
getting rid of the battery and not having the filter right behind the radiator makes a huge difference. the GDI demo 182 hasn't run that setup since about Feb BTW. Been on throttle bodies for quite a while now.
Dont remember ever having a viper on the 182. I know I've only worked at GDI...
best setup I've seen was a K&N on a relocated inlet pipe (3 inch steel pipe with heatwrap) putting the filter just below the headlight. Lowest inlet temperatures Andy had ever seen on the rollers while mapping
simple things first, HT leads the right way (1 is flywheel end), crank sensor plugged in, coil plugged in, ecu plug on correctly
doh, too slow, got distracted lol
depends on the revs you use really though. If you could keep peak power under 7k and didn't rev much past that, the rods would probably last a while. End of the day though, they're quite flimsy and it's not expensive to get quite reasonable quality reliable replacements. Cheaper to upgrade than...
bloody aweful having to put something together when you didn't strip it, I'd charge just as much from a stripped state as having the complete broken engine to pull apart. Takes twice as long to find anything if the bits aren't where you would have put them.
It's something I've been looking at. They're not baffled as standard and I'll probably make some simple trapdoors to go in ours as it's almost solely used on track. An Accusump system is the other option, though it's a little more complex than some flaps
I've seen funny things like this happen when one of the filamants in a twin bulb breaks and touches the other. Was a bit more extreme though, the popups on my 200sx would come up when pressing the brake lol, Air-brake FTW
pretty sure they'd only be allowed to refuse to do the test rather than just fail it as getting on the ramp isn't a part of the test. The test center we use has their 4 poster sunk into the floor, so there's no ramp to go up.
i'd get some new bolts on there for a start. split the join, clean it all up with a wire brush, then use some silicon (much better on exhausts than exhaust paste) and with the new bolts get it done up nice and tight. Worn hangers will not be helping as the exhaust swinging about will loosen up...