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that's called ringing. illegal. 93 is a crossover year for cat/non cat. Have a word with the MOT place and see if you need one or not

OEM ecu stays to run the dash. the 600 is what we (GDI) fit to clios and supply with ITB kits. As far as what brand of ECU to choose, I'll try to be impartial (as an employee of an Omex dealer). Which ECU you should use comes down to who is going to map it and what they are happiest with...

yay

no, i dont want to shim them :p

yes, it's what we (GDI) use on a lot of clios at the moment.

could be a blow from the manifold gasket that seals up when it gets hot

Quality can depend on the brand. As long as it's not an uber pikey one it should be ok. I've known some non genuine filters to lack non return valves which results in low oil pressure for a few seconds on startup as the filter fills up.

er it's still french lol they always feel like that even when they're perfect.

It's true you know, he instructed me to thrash it.....so I kicked the living s**t out of it lol

guess this qualifies now, used to get told it was just knackered lol

I like it.....but i'm practically middle aged

Really liking this project. Where's it going for paint?

Simple when you know how and have the correct locking tools. I wouldn't have done it first time without someone who'd done them before being present though. Being a cup with no aircon (i presume) the aux belt part becomes childs play

PMSL, are people actually buying these resistors still?

new oil is probably just a lot cleaner so you can't see it on the dipstick.

Only 1.4 punto I can think of is the turbo ;)

Good luck for tomorrow Mat. See you in the morning

I'm waiting for them to hit the 3 figure price bracket and build something fun

Depends what you have already really. If you dont map to suit anything significant like cams you wont get much out of it on it's own. A set of cams added onto a throttle bodied (standard internals) engine with appropriate mapping should give 15-20bhp

ones i've seen and done you can either weld the plates in or put them on the reverse of the panel so they're like a big washer. unfortunately there's normally at least one point that needs a foot welding in, The front ones especially as you need to attach to the sill rather than the floor so you...

just the noise really.

1144 is fast road compound you want. 1155 for occasional track use

baby jesus say "lower it"

humiliator of many things that cost a lot more. cornering FTW

bolt ins are allowed in a lot of motorsport, and in honesty some of the welding that i've seen that's passed scrutineering, I'd rather rely on some 12.9 bolts and correct spreader plates. If a bolt in cage doesn't make a difference to chassis stiffness, and a massive amount of occupant safety...

It's bumper off to get to the aux belt tensioner the easy way (tried it without and TBH it's just not worth the shortcut) Wouldn't do the cambelt at home TBH if you're not confident with an alternator change

sounds even more like an air leak then if the manifold has been off. brake claner sprayed on all the joins and pipes with the engine running and listen for a change in how it runs. if it picks up all of a sudden you've fouind a leak :)

my turbo, £450 with low miles from a mate., cost more than the car lol

lifted by the inlet manifold and caused a vacuum leak by disturbing the gasket maybe?

does sound like the re-circ dump valve opening and having an open filter rather than a box doesn't damp the noise. 2 solutions IMO, get a re-circ valve with a stronger spring (forge maybe) or remove the re-circ system and discover the wonderful world of compressor surge on lift off