Search results

good thrash probably did it good if it never gets it TBH. just check levels are all ok, top up as required and carry on. 10 miles of thrashing is nothing

8mm drain plug socket is about £7 from halfords. Feel for you on the oil spill :(

huh? it's really quite simple and the alignment pretty much can't go wrong when it goes back on if that's what you're worried about. If it's had an aux belt done then the bumper has been off already

dont need to, but for 2 nuts it saves quite a lot of skin

http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=334353 same type of tensioner as that, so it's just a case of slaken the pivot bolt and the tensioner locking bolt, tighten the tensioner and re-tighten the rest back up :)

been a few yearssince i did one of those but from memory ist's the same setup (in principle0 as the 172 cup aux belt which i wrote a quick description of yesterday. I'll try to find where i wrote it

ah gotcha. No there's another tool that locks the pulleys once the belt is tensioned by engaging in the teeth so you can tighten the nut and bolt rather than pinning through holes.

Your K4M is the same rear as dammit. Slighty different locking tool on the pulley end. but still uses a bar that slots into the back end of the cams and a pin through the block into the crank, to get them in the right place. Then you tension the cambelt with the pulleys fully loose so they can...

got a point I guess, wont make it faster than a stripped 182 though ;) I wouldn't believe that entirely, there's quite a few cars with around and in excess of 250bhp through the front wheels as standard now.

quite like the front and the colour, no-one seems to be able to do anything nice with the rear that's non standard :(

you need to fix the fault then it will not be in leimp home/safe mode. If a sensor fault isn't coming up I'd be thinking of the ECU itself at fault, but i'd do more diagnostic checks first. Who checked it and with what code reader?

extra power is only right at the top of the rev range. For nearly the whole range the power is identical between a stock 182 and a stock 197. You just get a little peak. The 197 chassis is amazing though. I think a 225 lump dropped in would be superb personally

sounds like it's gone into limp home mode due to a sensor fault. make sure there's no plugs come off anything obvious. If it's nothing obvious it will need plugging into diagnostics

f4r timing isn't done by teeth at all though

easier to just remove the bumper lol, have to get it half off to get to the slam panel support bolts anyway, and it does give good access.

I never take the headlight out, never seen the need. Bumper comes off so you can remove the slam panel. It's pretty damn easy on the ramp with the right tools so it's not even a consideration to leave it on TBH. If access is tight down the side of the engine it's quite often because the...

yup, 90deg twist on longest run is correct for a multi-vee belt. and exactly as you say, it's never quite tight enough to not squeel lol

honestly, it's so simple you'd be embarassed to have asked for a guide if you have a proper look. you need 3 spanners for the whole job. 16mm, 13mm and 10mm. Un nip the pivot bolt (16mm) un nip the tensioner locking bolt (13mm) undo the tensioner nut (10mm) until belt is loose, remove belt and...

I'd change the plugs anyway TBH, they wont have been done (and aren't due to be by renault service intervals) but they're not expensive and you have to do most of the work to change them if you change the leads

sounds like brake fade, better pads with new discs and new fluid should see you right :) can be quite scary if you've never had it happen before though

might be worth doing a re-set on the standard ECU then, the self learning can start to interfere after a while. Give us a call at GDI again tomorrow and we'll try to help with it, but do the checks i listed above first and see if you find anything :)

hard to tell without having the car infront of me at this point tbh. I'd be looking for broken sensors, pinched fuel line, inlet gasket leak (or other vac leak) then back to check the timing again

you wont lose the re-map, if it had done that the car wouldn't run at all. A re-flash isn't like a piggyback, the original map is wiped and replaced with new.

reading the other thread it sounds like all was ok running these cams until you changed the cambelt, that correct? If so it can only be something not set right or the de-phaser isn't functioning which is why i mentioned the solenoid

ECU re-flash wasn't it?

they will be ground to be timed completely standard using the locking tools. Did you check the de-phaser solenoid is plugged in yet? are you sure you did the timing procedure right? just doing it out of sequence can throw the timing out

over here!!!!!!! properly amazing machine. Love the wood effect wheels :D:D:D

you need a completely different bracket for the alternator, and the alternator itself and it's tensioning system is different. The belt is also shorter (and a lot cheaper) As said you need one new PAS line and change the routing of the other line

true, when you fit a re-flashed ECU you plug it in and leave it with the ignition on to let the imobiliser sync to the ECU and from then on it's locked to the car (assuming you're talking about a 172)

leads are a shade under £100 for a set from renault. Non genuine leads can be annoyingly too short