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more like 165-170 on genuine rollers ;) still sounds a decent car though. Certainly a cheaper way to get the mods on there than buying a standard car and fitting the bits yourself :)

I dont know the ins and outs of the standard ECU but a lot of cars will revert to a slightly more careful map (same as if knock is detected) if a knock sensor fault is seen. Most likely you will need to clear the fault code and reset the ECU and all will be fine

pretty much on the money TBH. You can't generalise between companies with what each stage means, it's just a simple way that someone will refer to a list of mods. It's a pet hate of mine, and has been for years but it's an unavoidable part of the tuning industry as customers want things to be...

More than just pumping hot air in, if there is much oil vapour being "breathed" this will go in and effectively lower the octane of the fuel you put in, so wasting the super-unleaded we get raped for. A breather filter, or better still a good quality catch tank is a good idea :)

OK, in that case you want to get some aero grade gasket material (composite) and cut it by hand. A mate worked for an aero company and had ofcut bits of some stuff that would be ideal, not sure what it was but gives you an idea where to look :)

if you have the cams already then it's going to be the same cost as a cambelt change (best to do this at the same time) plus an hours labour

a copper gasket would work, Ferriday Engineering would be able to cut them for you

would still need fairly major fabrication work to the front chassis leg even with use of the 197 lump and box, from quickly looking over it myself. Not impossible but pretty time consuming (costly) and the fab work would be critical to structural integrity. If you're going to mod the body and...

might be slightly off at a tangent but did you plug the de-phaser in ? Would have been unplugged to get access to the belt and pulleys by moving the loom

we use a double bend flexy head ratchet spanner with a 3/8 drive adapter and a 40mm extension. This fits in a square drive on the side of the tensioner. You really need to remove the bumper and slam panel and raise the engine to give a little more room to turn the spanner

taking the top bolt out will work but it'll be a nightmare to get back together (seriously, dont bother trying). Using a special tool is much easier

http://www.greydevilindustries.com/ we're in kimbolton, cambridgeshire :)

because he loves the c**k ;) It's just forum banter, I've never known a forum without it, and TBH it'd be fairly dull on most forums if you couldn't question parentage & sexual preferences and instruct to go forth and replicate periodically lol

the camshaft retaining caps are integral to the cover :(

the oil is sticky and it's that which catches small dust particles

12Nm

the rocker cover doesn't have a gasket as such, you use sealent on it. You realise it's a cambelt off job to do? So you'll need locking tools for the timing

pretty common. it'll be coming from the cam cover. Cambelt off job to do it unfortunately, I doubt it's losing oil fast though so as long as you keep the levels ok it'll be safe.

it'd be fine if every nob coming the other way wasn't on the wrong side of the road. It's better going the other way though ;) off the bump wait for suspension to load up on the way back down and throw it in

Renault really aren't expensive for this sort of thing. Wort the little extra IMO

you can't go by PSI unless it's the same turbo. (and only to a limited extent then) Different turbos will push a different amount of air at the same pressure.

just keep an eye on him and make sure he doesn't use tippex marks

were there using the same turbo?

they generally get better as they get newer, seen a few quite reasonable late 172 lower inlets that aren't quite as good as an RS stamped inlet but not far off. Also seen some quite poorly cast inlets

We dont use the FBW body for any significant modification as you need cable throttle for omex. My personal feeling is you wont notice an improvement from what's been done to that body but you wont lose anything, so if it's cheap, why not

i made 294bhp at 12psi and 323bhp at 16psi with that turbo on my nissan (1.8l, 8.1:1 CR) It's a very capable turbo. I'd think 10 psi would be a good place to start, and probably 12psi is going to be your peak before you need to upgrade a few bits. I'd look at a better intercooler. You need to...

prices aren't my thing TBH, but saving a lot of time fitting ofsets the cost of a very easy fitment part.

what turbo is it?

yeah you're not far off, that's pretty much the general idea. Give us a call about the loom, we have a very easy solution for exactly what you want :)

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