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that's massively rich above 5.5k. Certainly needs some attention, might be the map or could be a faulty sensor

would throw out a lot of other bits too, lower gearbox mount would be twisted loads, exhaust/manifold would be pointing up at the floor/tunnel. Simple and effective to just use flush fit bonnet pins. The only thing the slam panel really does is hold the top of the rad and the bonnet catch. Clio...

dont think it's really worth the work TBH, gearbox wont physically fit. Working on what bits will retro-fit at the moment. finding some things of interest but not much that would be easier or cheaper than just upgrading 172/182 bits to aftermarket for similar cost

could be dodgy, people tried it on 205 mi16 installs (well, longer actually) and oil supply to the head and cams is adversely effected.

nothing really, just a proper insert is better and gives a solid thread

mismatched tyres are never a great idea but shouldn't be that bad. Pirelli p6000 is a shocking tyre however. How did you check the rear shocks? Quite common this time of year for the road to be a bit more greasy even in the dry. First rain after a bit of sun and a lot of oil comes to the surface.

Engineers we use would probably fit a werth insert in situ. Better than a helicoil by a mile for sparkplugs, and about £60 tops. call a local engine reconditioner and see if they'll so it in situ

+1, you need to remove the caliper to use a wind back tool, and unless the caliper is seized, a screwdriver or similar will be quicker and easier

needs to be this low...

pretty certain you have fly by wire throttle (no cable) all your throttle is electronically controlled

seen plenty that have died well before that. Precious metal plugs give a cleaner burn which you need if you still have a cat, or unburnt fuel will hit the cat and damage it. They tend to melt the tip at the slightest running issuespecifically any pinking/detonation, though NGK are stronger than...

can try for you. small chance there's a set at work already

no need to use renault rings, as i said there's plenty of options or perfectly acceptable quality. I'd expect to pay £60 for a set

so are s14a's

yup, halfords rattle can laquer is surprisingly good

dont be so hard on yourself

learning the full range and control of the ECU to see exactly what it does FTW ;) it's not like that all the time, Andy got bored ages back lol

good innit :D We think it's an ex renault demo car which explains the 53 plate.

is it really fooked or has the clip just come off. The boot is plastic not rubber so rarely get damaged and the standard clips come off all the time

split boots have a tongue and groove arrangement down the seam. You dont pack them with grease until the glue is set. They tend to be a quick fix for MOT purposes but dont last that well. Do it properly once IMO, the CV is easy to get off on renaults. Though TBH, just bring it down and do it here

no, there's so many variables it's unreal. Housings and core alignment is fully rotatable on almost all turbos though (a few have a tab to stop rotation but that can be cut off) a GT28R 0.64 A/R (ball bearing core) for a 200sx fitment is good for enough air for ~300bhp with the right supporting mods

erm, plenum and leads come off to do cambelt anyway. TBH we'd charge no extra labour to fit plugs at the same time as a cambelt, takes all of 3 minutes extra

no, oil needs to drain into the sump above the level of oil. If it doesn't you will almost definitely get a backfeed of oil and the turbo core will be over oiled and pressurised which will cause the seals to fail

t-piece from the oil pressure sender hole (quite commonly used in OEM applications) or use a sandwich plate between the block and filter with take-off ports in it.

you got lucky and got away with it TBH. dont need machining each and every time but certainly need careful measurement for ovality

tried that once, took many hours to get it back together. Not the best way IMO. flexy head ratchet spanner with a 3/8'' converter and a 30mm 3/8'' extension. raise the belt end of the engine (block of wood to spread the load, and a jack under the corner of the sump) and from there it's piss...

looks well repairable. TBH you can pretty much insist it's NOT written off and is returned to pre accident condition as it wasn't your fault

not really just a case of that though, they're torqued differently so you need to line-bore the mains and hone the rods to ensure they're round or you risk oval bearings which is about as much use as a chocolate teapot

hub nuts torqued correctly when the bearings were fitted? brakes in good condition? could be a sticky caliper

good stuff. Stings like a sonofabitch if you get it on your hands