Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
The kit is brand new NOW, and Mats car was built 4 months ago. Mats car is also massively different in spec. The new ITB kit is designed to go on a standard engine which the race car is anything but. going to say it for the 3rd time, it's a constantly changing car and it's having the nice new...
I've seen this on other engines where the woodruff key and the keyway are badly worn so the pulley moves about. You may be ok with another pulley but I dont think you'll be able to tell without pulling it apart to look. Definitely the cause of the belt snappage IMO though
Lets make this a little more to the point. :) None of the cars on the stand actually had the full kit fitted, so you wern't actually looking at the full kit.
The demo car is still using the loom it's had for ages that's had a lot of things changed over time, but will be having a different loom...
be aware it will increase the spring rate at the same time if you do. In a professional capacity it's not something I'd advise, and it will fail an MOT if they notice. Saying that I've done it quite a lot in my younger days and not had issues
only by people who dont like to admit a number given to a car isn't it's power output ;)
Even so, you're right the car on that graph is down on power as standard even for a conservative dyno. And the owner of the car we dyno'd at 180 completely stock thinks it's gutless.
check the aux belt tensioner hasn't gone over center when it's been taken off. If it does the spring can touch the belt and the belt wont be tight enough.
yeah, or just line up the mark on the flywheel with the timing marks on the gearbox and try to slot the tool into the cams. No harm putting the lock pin in too. Remember when tightening the bottom pulley that you need to hold the flywheel (screwdriver or small prybar in the teeth) and not just...
single coil and leads. (172/182 style) Not tried it on a renault with standard ECU to be honest. Nissans have similar trouble though and converting is becoming more popular. I'd probably convert my 200sx if i didn't have a box of 50 spare coils lol
you'll get bigger cans of a better match and a better spray (halfords nozzles aren't the best) for less money if you go to a paint supply specialist. There's enough of them about to never have to use halfords
take it anywhere you like for a quote and as long as they're insurance approved it should be fine. You can't be forced to go somewhere you dont want to go
Really wouldn't worry. 4k is WAY to often to change Pro-S anyway. Oil anaylsis on a 300bhp 200sx running Pro-S showed it hadn't degraded at all after nearly 12k, and that's with several track days done too