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Your better off with warning lights as well pete. That way you'll have a visual indication as looking at gauges whilst giving it some yee ha in a race situation will never happen. Your focus is obviously elsewhere.

Thats one of the reasons I chose p4p as well! Plus it's a cracking product that they offer.

I'd imagine its like that to accommodate engine/gearbox movement really. The only problem I can foresee is if the internal diameter of the replacement pipe is bigger, it will reduce the pressure to the rack. The drop may only be small and not cause any issue though, but without putting a...

(1) adjusting the steering arms is the easiest bit to do tbf. I'll have rosejointed steering along with spherical bottom ball joint bearings and wishbone bearings (2) you can't just machine a pin up at different lengths to suit either unfortunately. It's all about how it acts on the bottom of...

I struck lucky with mine and get the whole lot for £80!!! My corner weight scales were, erm, free! ;) It's always nice to be in the right place at the right time! Lol

They all still go through the uch though mate.

Yes it would work but it also needs to be fully braced to compensate for the extra leverage it'll add to the subframe. I'm the guy doing the hub mods btw.

This is why i enjoy having my own Dunlop gauges and turn plates!

In theory, yes it would come apart there, but it's designed to collapse at that point if your involved in an accident and not to be split mate. Why do you want to split it out of interest?

It's possibly your caliper sliders or the pistons are not retracting properly. Grease the sliders and check the pistons are returning fully. A bit of high temp grease on the piston whilst returning them into the caliper does the world of good. If they both check out ok it'll be the handbrake...

Flol!

197 Cup racer roof vent!!! Absolutely love it!

I'm still interested in having a set off you mate.

It all depends on who you speak to at R-sport kenny as one of the guys who works there is a real pita to deal with tbh! And that's possibly the kindest word I'll say of him!!

I took mine from one of the wires going into the white plug for the wiper stalk. Power probed it to see 12volts come and disappear when ignition on/off, spliced into it using a heat shrink crimp connector and job done. It's either a white wire with a yellow trace running down it, or its the...

5-10 minutes of toe out will give you the desired turn in, but at the expense of straight line stability. But tbh, it's not horrendous anyway with that amount of toe out. It's only really noticeable on bumpy roads. Factory figures are toe out as well iirc.

​Yes mate that will be fine. Have you got the ecu with it as well??

Very nice Steven! Be interesting to see that manifold when it's all together!

Tbh mate, no I don't find it a stretch and I've got size 7-8 dwarf feet! Lol! Heel n toe is a pita on the standard setup I find as well. I altered the position of the accelerator pedal and I've made a larger pedal plate to put on it as well but not got round to fitting it just yet.

Yeah I'd be interested mate. I just use grip tape on the floor pan at the minute tbh, but the passenger side could do with some form of a foot rest for the passenger. I run my wiring down the n/s sill. Main loom on the top part and battery cable on the side. Never been knocked by any passengers...

On my cup column you couldn't split the top half from the shaft that connects to the rack. No chance whatsoever if this is what your referring to Swede cup. The top half of a dci column will split and has the bolt your mentioning.

Spoilsport! Lol! The ones I've found are pricey to say the least!

In my youth we used to go for spirited blasts to Skegness from Lincoln and back again - just for something to do at night! Lol! Had some epic runs against gsxr 600's and 750's of that particular era as well along that road! We were all in big hp boost buses which helped out! Unfortunately that...

What are those carbon foot plates costing out of interest?

I've used the earls version of this on fuel lines and it requires a hell of a lot of brute force to get it on all the way! The larger the bore, the easier it goes on though. I used the hot water method and the hairdryer to assist, but it still takes effort. Lots.

I think they're m10x1 thread if that's of any use. Tweeks should sell them I'd have thought.

yeah the rotary switch can turn it fully off pete. You can't hear a murmur off it either. It's quite a strange sensation when you have full assistance on the steering whilst pushing the car around!

They're just held in with the plastic clips mate.

I used fk ones mate. They're the bolt to hub ones as well that I've used.

No mate. Never felt the need to bother personally.