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Lol!

I run 2.5 degrees negative camber up front and have never experienced any lock ups from reduced contact patch tbh......did you have the steering geometry reset when you altered the camber?? Thats the only time i've experienced the entire car feeling absolute garbage due to the tracking being out.

Where have you mounted the pin to then? Do you have any pics as I like how flat yours sit tbh! I'll be using my faithful old nibbler when the time comes to fit mine.

I didn't have any diagrams mate unfortunately. I work with wiring alot as part of my job anyway so it was no real drama for me. Yeah the uch needs to be moved as well but that can be zip tied to the dashboard frame if your keeping it. Mines just zip tied up to the wiring that runs across the car.

The rear section of the loom for the lights etc is on a multi plug in the n/s sill trim/a pillar, so I just took it out of the car completely and removed any wiring I didn't need sat in the comfort of my sofa! I then refitted it loosely so I could make sure everything I wanted to work still did...

I've used Coilspring in Sheffield before and they are very good at what they do. I still use them now for making up various different combinations of coilover springs for my track car.

I've removed the entire loom from my car, removed the unessecary/unused wiring (speakers, electric windows and mirrors, air bags and seat belt pre tensioners etc etc), re wrapped it using proper fire proof tape and refitted it into the car. Took about 4 hours to do. As for the warning lights I...

They're not bulbs as such mate they're led's. If you fold some electrical tape in half (so it's not sticky) you can put it under the fascia plate and cover the warning lights up. It involves stripping the clocks down and using a hairdryer to warm the fascia plate as it's stuck to the clock...

If your working in Munich for 5 months I'd be getting the car over there as well to get some ring laps in!!

The springs become dislocated from their seats as well if you go to low. That's why they fit helper springs on most coilover sets. Ideally they should have the pistons in the dampers shortened as well to limit the amount of droop you get at full extension. You can have custom springs made by...

I think what Tony is saying is that if your tracking is out/adjusted to 1 degree toe in/out then it's been done wrong! Very wrong! It just points out that the "minutes" or "mm" measurement is the one the op should expect to see on the steering alignment. Or at least that's my take on it anyway.

I wish I'd thought of doing mine that way before I got it flocked! I've got the same cage as you just minus the a pillar brackets. I managed to get it pretty neat considering the a pillar tubes come inwards, and the gap around the tube/dash is pretty small.

I'd leave it all in and just tape it up out of the way especially if you have little time. Then look into building a new loom when your not competing during the end of the season. Time wise to build a loom from scratch your looking at about 10-12 hours worth of work if your doing the entire...

I've removed alot of the associated stuff your wanting to remove from the car and wiring loom on a 172 cup. It all comes down to how technically minded you are really, but as Tony says be warned! I do this sort of stuff daily for a living and i even managed to remove one wire too many! Luckily i...

And it varies from the size of the wheel its measured on if you go proper old school and use Dunlop gauges!!

For the track I use v power and get good mpg on the way home if there's some left in the tank. I've seen 47mpg according to the computer but I'm not convinced I believe that myself. For blasts out on the road I use normal 95 Ron fuel without any problems at all and tbh you can't tell the...

it does make alot more sense as you say. so, you drill holes into the sill side and then through the exhaust tunnel. But where the tube is in the exhaust tunnel, surely thats left open (so the inner of the tube is open to the elements).... that can't be a good thing Yeah the end of the tube is...

Especially if you know steve milton eh chip!

I only welded the tubes to the strengthening plates after they were welded to the shell. I didn't weld the tubes to the sills/tunnel as the hole needs to be bigger than the tube to get it slot in. Make sense?

It cost me £100 to have all the glass removed and the plastic stuff fitted in it's place. Door glass is a doddle to get out but front screen, rear screen and rear quarters are bonded in so not as easy to get out. You can do it yourself with a stanley knife but for the cost involved I'd just...

The rail kit I bought uses the 25mm tubes and it was the cheapest as well iirc. Yeah it comes in separate pieces so it can be made to suit all different widths of sidemounts. You drill the holes for the tubes to pass through, then put the strengthening plates over the tubes/holes and weld them...

I put seat rails in my track car. It's easy to do as well. Just make sure you measure everything up and get it square to the sills/tunnel. Also make sure the bars are level. I bought the rail kit from Tweeks and found it to be excellent quality. Get it built and enjoy the car mate. I put a lot...

Ah that's interesting then because the gasket matched the size of the inlet ports. That's why I matched it to the gasket. How far should I have gone then out of interest? I'm genuinely interested to know as I have another lower inlet sat in my shed.

Look out for the "RS" marked lower inlet. They are better than the non Rs marked lower inlets and require less work.

Difficult to say really mate. I'd like to think so, but in all honesty I really couldn't tell. For reference though, I went up against a ph1 that was stripped out with only a pair of bucket seats and a dash, and I was in mine which is stripped out but has the added weight of a cage and I was...

I used a carbide burr in a electric drill, then polished up with 60 grit paper in a flap wheel. Yeah I just ported the lower inlet out to the gasket size top and bottom, then made sure the top half matched the lower part of the manifold.

Yep i did mine myself. Absolute doddle to do if you've got the equipment.

I run -2.5 on the front of mine and use it on the road and the track. Tyre wear is fine as long as the tracking is adjusted correctly.

Absolutely love it!! Lots of lols at that!

What do you want to know from Scania mate? Thats who i work for!