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Yep, sometimes the edge of the pad needs filing a bit.
Make sure the calliper is super clean and rust free on the sliding surface too.
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Another step in the right direction today with the gearbox now back from Mark Fish and Hubs newly powder coated and new bearings pressed in.
The weather is supposed to start warming up tomorrow, so once I'm done with all the Valentines stuff I should be able to start getting the car back...
I'm not sure if I've got a blank one, a mate of mine does these for me but I'll have a look through all the files and see if there is one. I'll message you if I have one.
Right, I think I'm committed to doing the roof now.
Ordered all the materials which arrived today and started stripping the vinyl from the roof ready for polishing.
Material is a 2X2 3K carbon fibre mat, 210gsm weight. This will be layered in 3 sheets each layered at 90 degrees to each other but...
Pretty much the lightest wheel and tyre package you will find for a Clio is a set of OZ Ultraleggeras in 15” with 195/50 tyres.
Superleggeras are lighter but they don’t make them anymore. So only 2nd hand and very rare.
I wouldn’t even consider a 17” wheel. All Clio racers run 15” and a few run...
With the gearbox out I could only do one door and the tailgate to start.
I'm happy to report it was all very straight forward. The hinges on the passenger door are the bolted type so they swapped straight over.
All of the holes etc are clearly visible on the fibreglass moulding so it was easy...
So back in the workshop with the winter ahead of me I set about ordering everything I need for the upgrades.
I finally made the decision to go Fibreglass! I have had the bonnet for a couple of years but the doors have always bothered me because of the way they are joined around the window...
Right, nearly 6 months since my last update. 2 more races to report on (sort of).
Donington was a bit of a gamble as we put a late entry in because of the misfire issue and consequently arrived there as 4th reserve. This meant that the grid was full at 40 cars max but we would qualify with...
Yep, that's it. Sump can be tricky as the bolts can round off easily and it needs to aligned properly when it goes back on. If its not leaking and you're not doing the rod bolts leave it be.
Also, rear main seal needs to be left sticking out a couple of mil. It's easy to knock it in too far. Bad...
Definitely do them at the same time but no need to remove engine. That’s a load more work that isn’t necessary.
While you’ve got the box out you can move the engine over and up enough to get much better access to the cam belt.
A days work to do both if you’re handy with the tools (and have the...
The EBay ones really aren’t any good. I tried one first but soon gave in and invested in the genuine tools.
You might be able to borrow one if you’re near another forum member.
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All the beams are the same yes. Only the stub axles have two variants, 10mm or 18mm (might be 20mm I can’t remember exactly)
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Not exactly. On our pre season test day this year I had intended to do just that. We ran AO50s in the morning and the plan was to switch over after lunch. Unfortunately the engine broke a rocker just before lunch so that was our day over.
Hopefully we'll do the same in March.
I've been tempted...
We use Adams and Page https://adamsandpage.co.uk/ As they sponsor the CSCC who we race with so we get a bit of a discount. £130 sounds about right and if you offset that cost against not needing a set of wets they're good value!