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I use these to hold the splitter on
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycle-Fairing-Clips-m5-m6-Speed-Spire-Clips-Select-Quantity-10-100/130798235678?hash=item1e742eb01e:m:myZ0iPUVBteq9uCRKda0zJw:rk:1:pf:0
They haven't failed me yet and I also use them to hold the lower part of the side skirts...
Ha! It definitely does pay off and especially in racing where the stresses on bolts, components etc are that much higher.
I don't envy you moving house and trying to move a workshop too. I think moving my workshop would be more stressful than moving the stuff in the house!
I'm based in...
Thanks mate. When I read back what I've been through with this car I do wonder how it is that I still have so much enthusiasm for it! If last season had gone differently though it could be up for sale now! Having a bit of silverware makes a massive difference. So we'll see how 2019 pans out...
Thanks Neil, much appreciated. Like you, I do like a bit of attention to detail and when you're racing I've found it pays dividends. Despite initial gremlins on the car's first outing after the rebuild the reliability has been spot on. Only improvements are required and of course just keeping on...
So after a couple of months not touching the car I now need to start cracking on with my planned changes and improvements ready for the first test day at the end of March.
My main goal this winter is to get the dash and OE heater out as this is the last significant area for weight reduction...
Mine were ok. But I didn't use bulkhead fittings. Just drilled through and used grommets. And I went through the firewall underneath the seam that you've drilled above. Although the kits do appear to be a little inconsistent Mich has always been extremely helpful and I'm sure he will sort it for...
Phase 1s have a return line to the tank whereas the phase 2s don’t.
Not sure if you’ve tried changing the regulator (or even if you can on those rails).
Other than that, if you are sure you have a fueling problem it can only be the in tank pump or the injectors.
These cars are notorious for bad...
That was my old race car! The previous owner had stuck the rain light on the boot with screws and a bit of silicon so I found another boot release badge and drilled it out. Just a bit tidier but I would definitely mount it inside at the top of the rear window which is where I now have the rain...
Sounds like you've just been unlucky with the timing. If you're running standard or standard-ish power, the standard clutch should be fine, but you probably know that anyway.
On a standard engine a decent Valeo or Sachs clutch will be fine. If you want more bite a Helix paddle clutch will fit the bill, but they’re expensive and I think overkill for your needs.
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Wheels make a massive difference obviously, not only on kerb weight but such a reduction in the rotating mass completely transformed the car.
Also worth doing a bit of research into the rollcage weights. Obviously you don't want to compromise safety but some cages are incredibly heavy and unless...
Yes, Emerald ECU, but that's not a piggyback, it's a stand alone ECU so you have total control over the map which you really need for the engine to run safely.
Weight saving is an ongoing mission. Over the past season I have managed to lose about 60kg out of the car by changing to light-weight wheels (OZ Ultralaggeras), fibreglass bonnet, Lexan rear window and lots more metal cut out of the doors, boot and inside the car. Currently it sits at 900kg...
No port matching to do really with Jenvey ITBs. All I did was mildly polish the combustion chambers. Standard size valves (although some say larger valves can help)
I run 220 on pretty much that but not that cam and no work to the head.
It’s achievable but you need a very well balanced bottom end to allow the engine to rev safely up to 8k.
I use a 433 cat cam with vvt removed.
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2 bushes in the set I ordered. Basically enough to do one rack. I can’t see there’d be any reason for someone to only require one.
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Probably cheaper just to buy a new caliper. the rears are cheap enough. I assume they are powdercoating them for you but their labour cost even for helicoiling might be comparable to the cost of a new one. ( I might be way off, but worth considering I would have thought)
Back in the workshop, these wheels will need some attention.
With the persistent man-flu I've had little chance to get back on the car but it was a simple enough task to diagnose the Ait Temp sensor issue.
Within 30 seconds I had found the problem
Both wires detatched from the plug, so new...
Birkett 2018 - Silverstone GP
Over a week ago now, but shortly after the race I came down with the manliest of man-flu that I've experienced! I'm still suffering now, so I've been a bit slow updating this.
Firstly, for anyone who hasn't been before or even knows what it is; the Birkett 6 hour...
Mine aren't tight in there. It literally just holds the lines in position, so as long as you have the retaining clip on the MC side, like you have it should be fine. What you've done is a decent solution though, so as long as the joint is tight I can't imagine anything can go wrong.
You're...
Just about ready for the Birkett now. Last weekend was just about reassembling the front end, fitting subframe back on and then installing the new discs and pads. Then just torquing everything up properly and double and triple checking every nut and bolt.
Then Monday evening it was fluids...