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This is what I have. Best fitted with the tank dropped though and not even sure it's doable without removing the tank.

Might actually meet you there! I'm racing at Snett on the Saturday but giving Rob Quantrell a hand at Silverstone on the Sunday in his Clio. (Won't be driving unfortunately)

Yes, on my Seat Leon Cupra R they used to melt all the time. Don’t use the caps anymore on any car. (Although all the other cars are race cars anyway!) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Part of the fun for me is building and working on these cars and I definitely wouldn't have the budget to pay someone else to build it anyway. That said, I'm still easily into £20k. For that money though I have a very competitive car that is always at the sharp end of 30-40 car grids. Also...

Thought I'd updated this after the test day in March! Can barely remember it now and obviously all racing came to a standstill literally the day after the test. So, the test day.. It almost all went to plan! The morning was spent dividing the driving between Jon and me, Slowly getting quicker...

Definitely sounds wiring related. Have you checked all your earth points? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wouldn’t know for certain but there’s a good chance. The F4R design is just about the worst for a high revving engine. Because of the stroke, on full chat the pistons move up and down the bore faster than an F1 engine! (Can’t remember the figures but it’s ridiculous) no wonder they like to let...

Beware of skimming the head though. As these engines are interference engines valve to piston clearance is tight. If you want a higher compression ratio buy pistons designed for that purpose which are profiled accordingly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I use King Race bearings and have found them to be good. Yes, I would stay away from Wossner pistons if you can although they are an affordable way to get the compression up. I use JE pistons but they are made to order in the states. pure motorsport head is a nice bit of kit but if you’re only...

Yes it’s all on there but DM me if you need more info Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, Laguna rear wiper Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

“Becauseracetart”! I like it! I think that might be me too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Supertech valves and springs are the easiest upgrade. Change valve stem seals while you’re at it. Rod bolts and Megane bottom pulley and you should have a pretty safe engine. And obviously make sure the timing is done properly when it all goes back together. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quite often the end of the sensor gets snapped off. At least this one has escaped that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s the oil level sensor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s the oil pressure sensor. Is the plug actually broken or could it just be repinned? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes! That’s the one. Precision engineering right there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Tooling not rolling! Bloody autocorrect Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes I’d say just pretty badly made. There’s some old footage floating around on the internet of a Renault factory with a technician bending a door in all directions and hammering the catch with a mallet to get it to fit! So with those sort of tolerances and probably some variation in the rolling...

My Poorboys looks exactly the same! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Although ITBs sound awesome, if you’re keeping the rest of the engine standard you won’t see any significant gain in power really. Maybe a small improvement but for the cost it’s questionable whether it’s worth it. If it’s a 172 then changing to the 182 manifold will help. And if you can stretch...

I see. You’ll probably find rust around the filler cap too so might be worth getting that done too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They're fiddly to fit. I've documented my repair briefly here https://cliosport.net/threads/the-trials-tribulations-of-racing-a-clio.810449/

I think it was these guys https://www.carbodypanels4u.co.uk/renault/clio/renault-clio-3-door-hatchback-2006-2009-campus/rear-quarter-panel-up-to-window-15475

Yes, all the shells are the same. I bought mine in this country. I’ll need to look back to see where it came from Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Main terminal on starter will be shorting on one of the studs. It’s quite common. You’ll see one of the studs is quite long and when the “L” shaped terminal is done right up it touches. It’s very difficult to see once fitted but I’ve been there twice before! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think he means per tonne

Look again. £360 for a pair of doors. Not each. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

With a proper spot weld drill bit it’s very easy. I’ve replaced the roof and a rear quarter this way and removed numerous brackets from the car. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Advancing the inlet slightly isn't that bad. Very unlikely to cause the symptoms you are experiencing so I'd persevere with the air leak theory. Good luck!