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Dealers won't repair just replace. Loads of repair services on eBay or I do it for £10 bit you'll have to travel

I didn't realise you'd undertaken this task Tony. Sorting things out and taking charge of any situation is never easy and its often a thankless task. Obviously I haven't read all 39 pages but as someone who is seriously interested in this I wanted to ask if anyone had taken this on rather than...

Yeah I was gutted plus I didn't know we were eligible for access to Burpspeeds VIP hospitality area. Just checked the calendar and I've got an R26 in for belts and brakes that day so can't do the 30th but i'll come show my ginger mug and some support on the Saturday... really enjoyed the day at...

I'll bring the chainsaw!

What date Tony - I can come be a lacky if you like providing you don't make me pay £2.50 for a cup of s**t coffee?

Is there any chance of someone taking charge here and creating a bullet point set of rules away from the open public to "debate" on? 39 pages of joshing mixed with actual decent thread content is too much for my enthusiasm to trawl through and i'm keen to do this myself (it may even save my 172...

The problem could be with any number of the earths on the vehicle... so you need to check them. Start with the lighting loom earth seeing as that is where the problem is manifesting itself. They can be found near the lights themselves

Any warning lights on, red LED flashing rapidly?

If the red LED on the keyfob isn't working then chances are it'll be as per post #2, button on the PCB has busted or broken loose from the board. The fact the car starts with this same key says the imob is fine. I bet the CL button on the dash locks/unlocks the doors fine to... if so you need...

I betthey still charged you! Get it looked at by someone that knows what they're doing... Not a franchised dealer ffs

Picture of that sticker

Yes but you must 100% make sure the mechanism goes back on to the locating boss correctly. If you don't you'll either scratch or brek the screen. Mick

Wiper mech is broken

That's a serious target!

Black one wasn't bad either but that Cup makes me giggle. Stupidly quick to!!

Love that car... pops and bangs scared the crap out of me when I drove it lolz

These checks are standard with us on anything over an oil change... so £120-£230

Guessing... never an expensive route to fixing a car is it? Shame the French know nothing about vehicles unless it's a tractor

I'm not trying to start an argument/debate on the subject or saying in any way that the OP has been sat for months at idle. I was simply saying that a motors finite lifespan isn't measured in nor does it translate to miles covered by the vehicle. Mick

Had this on my 172 which turned out to be a fuse in the passenger compartment... I think it was a 10A

Agreed but what you have to take into acvount is actual run time to. Its a motor at the end of the day and has a finite lifespan. Vehicle mileage doesn't translate to how many hours the pump has actually run for. That being said this does sound a bit premature. Don't write off Renault UK...

More likely to be an issue with the resistors you've fitted to those trigger lines. Check your resistors. Mick

Servicing plays a huge part and it is more than just screwing on an oil filter, replacing oil and replacing some elements. Electronic checks should include a cursory check of fault codes to see if anything has been flagged followed by a check of the live data to ensure things like...

I also ran the Hanks on my 172 in 195/50/16 but I had the S1 Evo (I believe the Ventus V12 is only available in 205/45/16) and they were nothing short of brilliant in both dry and wet conditiins and only found they suffered below 4°c... not as good as the PE2's but not the same price either.

The pump draws coolant from the rad and pushes it round/thru the block and heater matrix.

That will be lodged in the block somewhere... checked behind the stat/stat house yet? Tough call but I'd replace it

Over bore not an option?

Saw that... looked like she didn't have a clue either of them were there.

If the adhesive gel wasn't replaced or refitted correctly when the new screen went in it can cause an issue but that light could be on for any number of reasons and without plugging it in you won't really know why.

Another possible is the mixer flap/position motor as this can stop it achieving a true cold blow. Ideally though you need the HVAC system looking at on CLIP to see what is actually happening and what the computer is trying to chill at vs actual internal cabin temp. You can try other places...