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But... have you... lol Spoke to custom cages earlier today about there 6 point Clubman Tony ;-)

But... have you... lol Spoke to custom cages earlier today about there 6 point Clubman Tony ;-)

Have the regs/rules been finalised yet? Just looking at cages myself as I don't think I can bring myself to let Pearl go.

Its because the shims aren't in and you've removed all the crud... nothing majorly wrong. I personally prefer it this way as the pads don't stick/seize and so saves pad/disc life but on customer vehicles I always file the back plate accordingly to ensure a proper fitment with the shims in place.

Holy fek, I thought I was expensive on the 1.2 with new water pump at £230 using genuine Renault parts... time to price increase!

As above, genuine ecu faults are rare but that being said they do crop up from time to time. If you can communicate with it then that kinda says its okay but you could have an issue with the loom, UCH or one of the main latching relays. Really needs seeing by someone that understands how the...

Not without getting balls deep in it I'm afraid. I assume all earths have been checked so It's one of those that you really need to see.

Never mind then I misread someones reply

I would seek professional help with this one. Where are you based as I'd be very suprised if the ecu is dead.

This is going to be such a simple one to fix but you are going to need CLIP I'm afraid. You have replaced the UCH which is configured differently to your vehicles actual config. Because of this the UCH is looking for something over CAN which isn't there so it is giving the solid light and is...

Keyed... piece of piss this engine. Just make sure you get the correct marking on the cam pulley as there's two and they're next to one another (Nice one Renault).

Check the mixer flap motors as they're most likely broken on the mountings

Piece of piss (with the subframe off)... its a horrible job and as above, longer bolts make it so much easier.

Google a local mobile diagnostic service. Doesn't have to be CLIP just something that is strong on French vehicles as I don't think an eBay ODB Scanner will help out much here.

That wire is an extra and not an issue... Diags first... everything else after.

Jesus, this escalated fast! Get it plugged in first before condemning it as fuel pump or injector failure.

No idea I'm afraid as I'm not an engine builder nor have I ordered from them before.

Light on the left is the glow plug amd general fault lamp. The one on the right is the serious fault light which normally illuminates when a fault is present that prohibits the engine from starting.

Level 2 electrical fault - Tricky one on a 1.5dCi... could be something really daft like a fuse (so check them all) or a broken wire under the bonet.

LoLz - there's your issue then

Need it otherwise when you tighten up the fixings a torsional effect moves the cams and the pulleys slightly thus altering the timing that you've just set. It won't be out by degrees but minutes count with these engines.

Yeah they are unbelievably cheap now days but the nice ones are still holding there own. Injectors are the most common cause followed by leads, plugs and coil packs. Leads are normally bomb proof though if genuine Renault items and not Magnecrap.

Okay so it starts (?rhet)... then its 100% fek all to do with the crank sensor. P codes are the devil plus as non of your "history" is date stamped you canmot trust them as being actual faults just yet. Generic codes may as well all say "something wrong with the car - electrical" so lets work...

Impossible to say without plugging it in. Deffo not crank sensor though as the light is flashing at 4hz... I'm not going over the meaning of the adac again as its done to death so search it out.

It is a not so common issue which is to do with the static tensioner. If the tensioners actuator/setting point goes beyond 1 o'clock the guide notch seems to hit the top of the corresponding groove in the cylinder head. This results in a slight knocking when warm that sounds similar to the...

Key isn't authorised to start the vehicle... question is why

CLIP > Live data > Parameter PRXXX "Solenoid Position" > Value = Open/Closed... if its cycling when the dephaser *should* be advancing then it is working. I've had a 182 Cup in before with a similar dephaser like issue (that wasn't the dephaser) and it turned out to be the timing belt...

Give them opportunity to rectify it but I personally don't think a solenoid will resolve the issue. A quick check on CLIP would show it the solenoid is functioning correctly or not!

So many alternators at the minute. One last week, two next week... its like someone is going round killing them.

That's proberbly Adams... he loves to keep it clean