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play in track rods or rod ends?
pads not pressing evenly on the discs - ie caliper piston, sliders or pads seised in some way?
If a garage did the work then take it back and ask them what's wrong, and ask them politely to show you the problem. If you changed them, did the pistons go back fine...
I think an understeer balance will always be there unless you massively stiffen the rear spings/beam. You've probably impoved overall grip with the changes though, and obviously driven faster with it.
Did you play around with tyre pressures at all? Makes most of the difference in shifting...
If setting them at a low cold pressure, just don't push until you get them warmed up properly.
I'm in the minority here (so this isn't necessarilly good advice really) but I prefer to go a little more than 30 psi hot, around 34 for me. I've often found it runs on the outside of the front...
It may be a good idea to wipe it all clean (may need to take top of inlet off to do properly). Go for a short drive and look again and you should see where the oil comes from.
If its just being "noticeable" to your insurer you're concerned with then buy the eibach sportlines and spray them black. No?
I seriously doubt any insurer would notice the small difference in ride height. If it doesn't look MAX POWER it will just be viewed as "the 2 litre clio sport, the...
Nice to see all this info you are taking the time to post up, cheers. However, I can't see the original pdf because I'm not a member
So, if you don't mind, could you verify why you think the rear toe of 182's is "out", i.e toeing out?
Any toe out should be described as a negative number, by...
Great work that is so helpful, if indeed it is all correct (I've no reason to doubt it). Thanks very much!
Though, I would like to see spring length (extended) on there and also renault paint codes, anyone?
Andy, I like your thinking re spring choice. I think the 182 cup front spring is just a...
Do it please.
I know someone who is looking for a fitting end for his 172 and keen on trying a severn-type build. We've discussed the options for rs clios in this type of app many times but it has stalled when we think of the number of custom fabrications required...
the machine's measuring accuracy is not being questioned.
Is it a handling problem? I don't know. I wouldn't have thought so, but I would try unbolting and refitting the beam before shimming as the total toe is "average" within tollerance. Is there any scope to "align" the rear beam on its mounts?
It really is a DIY task for most. Little details make the difference though, eg the pads may need filing to correct size and/or you may choose to ditch the metal pad guides on the front calipers etc.
Do you mean would they look better?
More stealthy maybe? Not sure what other reason there would be for doing it TBH, unless you personally like them more?
handy to have a spare full set of wheels though, if the're cheap then why not?
I've also noticed this info and came to same rough conclusions. Tempted to try non-cup 182 front springs on my 182 cup for more compliance and a more roll-oversteery balance! No real solid data knocking around to confirm all this though. I wish someone would bench test all spring/damper varients!
If it's temporary, surely just HC fronts with DS2500 pads? Good enough for many on here it seems.
I think a lot of people would also say the standard rear set up is fine for pretty hard track use - not much heat is generated there. Rear bearings are worth renewing on these and genuine from...
Supply vs demand... seems everyone wants one, and rightly so it seems. Prices are only going to go up and up, surely?
Time for other manufacturers to put clio rear anti-roll bar on the market to fill some of this demand?
It certainly didn't self centre as it should, especialy nearing full lock where it was as you describe. Not sure mine felt stiffer, as such, just odd.
Felt much better when toe set straight. (although I now run 1mm toe out and a less extreme camber setting)
Altering camber with them bolts changes the toe massively. Don't drive it until it's aligned correctly.
For example when I fitted mine and set them max negative I then measured the toe and it was over 20mm toed in... and that is a huge amount to be out! I drove it half a mile just to see what...
I wouldn't.
And I don't think its the sole cause of your handling issue in all honesty. Unless something is clearly bent on the rear I would not shim anything, would be a bodge anyway. It's not uncommon to have rear axles a little tiny bit off square, your total toe is ok really.
I can't vouch for the source, sorry.
I had tried to work out what it meant it a while back and came to the conclusion it was a typo or conversion error. It still helped me though, it makes sense if it was simply a decimal place out.
It looks from one of your pics that the rear "thrust angle" is out, admittedly not by much. Could the rear have hit the pothole also, taking a bit of a heavy jolt one side? (Clutching at straws here!!!)
I would investigate the possibility of trying to get the rear axle mounted a bit straighter...
I guess I need to do mine then. But I would really like to know if I really should stick to the Renault supplied Elf or go for something equally expensive but works even better.... I've heard it's a good idea to go for a slightly more viscous 75w 90 - is that right?
Basically, it want to make...
It's what I would choose If I was buidling a project (that wheel and tyre size). Can't see why it wouldn't fit - almost identical dimensions to 205/45 on 16 inch wheel (182's)