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Impossible to know without getting it looked at. I would not have thought your shafts were gone unless you get other noises in bends and would not be limited to any particular gear). I would check gearbox mount isn't loose?

+1 You want power.... Fair enough! My (rather long-winded) opinion was more aimed at the general clio owner, we all know our cars are slow straight line and allways will be. Sorry if it wasn't that useful to you:)

Engine mounts?

I had a 205 GTI a few years back - I got beaten on the straights and in the corners by mates 172 at Oulton Park... love 205's and had spent loads on mine but it had to go for the reason it was gonna cost loads more (eg fit a GTI-6 lump) just to be competitive with a boggo standard 172 (non cup)...

http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?440438-Spring-Rates-Standard-vs-Aftermarket I found this useful Important bit coppied... 182: 2.43/5.04 daNM/mm F/R 182 Cup: 3.19/5.65 daNM/mm F/R 182 Trophy: 3.19/5.65daNM/mm F/R

I've used one in the past when I had pugs, a bit fiddly to set up but worked ok really (10 psi is plenty, don't over pressurise) Never tried the kit with the clio as I prefer to gravity bleed now - takes a while but effortless process if your cars up on stands and your on with other jobs. Don't...

Worth doing your fluid, definately. Loads of advice on bleeding on here, just be careful not to get air into the system. Also check that your pads are free to move in the caliper, not wedged tight through poor fitment or a build up of dust and corrosion.

Looks to me like the garage have brought up clio III (possibly 197) settings for comparison. The caster and Steering Axis Inclination values in black are not right for 182. Anyway that doesn't matter as they have only been able to adjust your toe, it was toed in before and now its a little...

a company called "coil spring" in sheffield will

Michelin ps3 + Contisport 3 seem to be the best all rounders in clio sizes. I would go for conti for the value over the mich Hankook v12 or S1 Evo's worth a look if cost is important though, had their v12's on a 205 a few years back - replaced a set of T1-R's with them and they seemed like an...

I think it still stands, in that the axle with less tread depth will begin to aquaplane at a lower speed. However, I doubt many people would be driving at the cornering limits on a film of standing water like that. It's just good sensible advice. I choose to ignore that sort of thing if I'm...

Kam Racing worth look also, had top service from them.

That's pretty inteeresting Dan, I agree, what made you think more castor needed? Would that help with turn in bite as that's what I feel increasing camber has lost a little of. I know its not possible without other mods anyway so not an option for me unfortunately.

Not from Renault, so I'm told, but my mate got one for his 172 off ebay.

and again, why do you want spacers? Re camber, fronts are 1/2 a degree negative standard, rears are 1 1/2 degree negative as standard (approx), as has been said. I used Eibachs bolts to get fronts up to 1 1/2 negative to match the rears. Seems better in the dry (on the road) but feel that...

Really unlucky. Hindsight is a wonderful thing, but my advice was to leave that bolt alone (much to the dissagreement of others). Quite frustating, feel bad for you mate.

Could be one of several places - joints in the column, the rack, the inner track rod ball joint, rod end ball joint, or lower arm ball joint. none of which should have been removed so probability is it was like that before. Mine makes a little knock both directions if I give the wheel a propper...

That's My way of doing it, yes! Like fred says, you can undo the lower bolt on the shock instead (I did it this way when removing the exhaust) but I feel it may be better to undo the top nut instead, for the reasons in my firts post. Once you get going it will all be sooooo obvious!!!!

No. You do them at teh same time really. Your rear axle is almost certainly too stiff to only loosen one side and get the extension required. No problem :)

Yes its very easy. First - Most people replace rears in pairs, I would but since you havent, make sure you check they are both the same (same height when off and same paint marks) To do it: first, look inside you boot for the piramid rubber things, remove them. Undo the 16mm nut on each side...

O/P and Craig, have either of you solved this? Still think rear shocks or front lower arm ball joint/bushes the most likely culprit

I wouldn't say 32psi is far too high. Renault say 33 front, 30 rear. I would say your suggestion is a bit low imo

Might have sounded a bit dismissive there ^ with other cars I would have said any odd turn-in handling was a problem with bottom ball joints or perhaps inner bushes. It maybe worth checking, but in my experience with clio's, even when ball joints are slightly worn they dont develop massive...

Quirky. I have to say i'm suprised how odd the clio handling is from time to time, and any hot hatch Ive had. No idea on your jag, but for me right now these greasy conditions are a world away from the seemingly perfect handling that I've experienced in warmer weather over the years. Rear...

I have found that the recent rise in temps has had an effect on my hooning, more that anyone would believe really. I keep this thing to myself normally as its geeky and probably bul***t but I would put it down to front tyres actually juuuust begining to come up to their prefered temp. Probably...

Thanks, apprecitae that

Isn't that the 172 cup spring? I'm not meaning to be arsey, simply trying to learn :)

Just my opinion, as it seems Fred says i'm wrong- but I think white/white are for 172 non-cup springs. Its what my mate has on his P2 172 and he has had it for 6 years.

So what do non-cup spring have?

Is there any sign that manufacturers are listenning to customers? Surely not. It's not just runflats though, my mate has recently got a FWD FSI Audi TT, a fairly cheap car to run... appart from 255/35 r19 pirrellis at over £250 each. !!! ouch This is stupid money for consumables, but would...