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Small is the way forward, will make your pocket rocket move quicker than if you had 18's on there

I think the balnket is an old wives tale sorta thing. Oil won't freeze, and anti-freeze doesn't freeze, it won't kee it warm as its not generating any heat to insulate

Can get a kit that converts existing lights to xenons

Yeah, didn't bother renewing

Is it a mk1 or mk2 clio?? On the Mk1's its a force of 30N between the water pump and camshaft pully and the deflection shoudl be 6.0mm +- 0.5mm

I woudl guess you need to find some hydrolic hand brake rear clipers, and then just run a seperate system, opperated bya smaller master cylinder, and a hand opperated lever?

You ahve drumns, he has discs, BIG difference

Trade is usually 10% off retail. Much better buying parts from GSF

Nope, same Only williams ones are longer

Certainly on my engine tehre are no marks on teh tensioner pully, tehre is a mark on teh camshaft pully and the crankshaft pully, but no tensioner pully, i simpy tnesion it up till i can turn it 90 degrees and then check it deflcets a certain amount when i certain force is applied lol, which...

You have to do 2 full turns for the lines to line up again

Make sure yo get the super dot 4 and not the normal dot 4, i boiled the normal dot 4 at donnington

f**k doing that lol!!! Get a sandwich plate that goers between teh filter and block with temp and pressure sender holes in it, about a tenner off ebay, got one here, good quality, just need the funds for the gauges

I use 5W40 Helix atm in the RSi, not noticed any difference between that and Silkoline Pro, both similar prices too. Only thing is for the first few heat cycles the Silkoline seesm to stay cooler, but then after a weke or so it takes on the same sorta temp as the Helix, possibly being designed...

Only thing that effects it is your right foot lol

Nowt wrong with GSF wheel bearings! They do cheapie brands, but for the mk1 clio anyways std brembo are the same price or near enough teh same price, wouldn't mess about with grooved / drilled discs, waste of time IMO

Thropttle cable is in a sheath up to the TB, so engine moving won't effect it, only way it will ahve been affected is if they messed with the cable and they don't bneed to do that to do mounts

*sniggers*

Again far too easy, i like to do it the hard way.....although those are good tips for removing the hub nut if you forget to loosen it while the cars on the ground:o

Guess either needs greasing or solinoid has packed in. Dirt cheap 2nd hand speak to mat brown or winston

The emissiosn reducer make the engine run shitte for ages afterwards and saps power apparently. Just swap it back over, tehre is almost no chance of a new car passing with no cat and they make the emissions so low

I can't be in the car and at the wheel at the same time, and you know i ahve no friends :dapprove:

LOL, quite possibly could be lol Why worry, just make the quick fit monkeys use 2 sockets instead of one

Let me guess fitting an oil temp sender, bottem of the sum is the last place i'd put it, its the lowest point under the car, get a snadwich plate and runa pressure feed too, pressure is alot more important than temp

Of course its gonna be quicker lol, the engine isnt moving and absorbing half the acceleration force lol

£45 for a re-con shaft from GSF, exchanging your old one, fitting piece of piss, if you are local to the midlands will fit it for £40

engine mounts, wheel not on fully, well fucked wheel bearing

Pussy lol ;) Just hold the disc with one hand and undo with the other

17 and 19mm heads fella Demon tweeks sell them

Most of you lot don't have a clue lol Only way i found was up fron underneath, its almost impossible getting the chain one in there, its hard enough on a normal car, every one i've done have been quite loose and can be un doe by hand, think you can just about get a hand in down by the driver's...