Search results

yes there is. I'd resist adjusting it unless you really need to though. Can it not run the standard ICV?

i can't comment on what they will really give, but it won't even be close to what they're claiming on ebay

Re: James/BigAsh 182 Race Car by TDF... It doesn't get much better than this! *Pic He it'll turn up blue, trust me. I've used lots from Canems with their ECUs, and it's the same sensor as we used to use at Omex. Same Bosch resistance curve as everyone uses. common and cheaply available sensor...

Re: James/BigAsh 182 Race Car by TDF... It doesn't get much better than this! *Pic He if it's in the stock sensor position, then that's the one.

Re: James/BigAsh 182 Race Car by TDF... It doesn't get much better than this! *Pic He http://www.canems.co.uk/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=69&products_id=194

Re: James/BigAsh 182 Race Car by TDF... It doesn't get much better than this! *Pic He nope, but i'm pretty sure James doesn't have the stock sensor in place

Re: James/BigAsh 182 Race Car by TDF... It doesn't get much better than this! *Pic He what sensor? ECU coolant temp one? they're about £15

well that sucks a bit

sounds about right as the full system is £330

about as easy as it gets

hhahaha, lucky charm ;)

wanted to, couldn't come as I had to give a car back to a customer.

Sam has never made me brownies. Feeling a little left out to be perfectly honest :(

standard. That's a batch number

the center section is available separately. i could get you on in if you wanted fitting for example. Easier to buy direct from Ktec if you want to crawl around on the floor

might have to work out how to squeeze some more ponys for next year. Field is getting faster and more competative every race

when you remove a rocker cover, you can very easily tell a car that has run on semi-synth and not had regular changed IMO. Heavy brown deposits from contamination, and semi-synth seems to go almost slimey

you have to travel for quality

it's purely down to temperature range in the region the car is used/sold. 10w40 is slightly less suitable for colder climates, rated to -20 where 5w40 is rated to -25. However 10w40 is usually semi synthetic rather than fully, so it doesn't last as long

if you have the single lambda ph1 then connect it to your FPR

right, that's not on the throttle body, it's on the plenum. Early single lambda cars have the vac hose from the plenum to the FPR on the fuel rail. twin lambda cars don't use this and the vac take-off is blocked on the plenum. On a ph2/182 it is used for the accoustic valve.

Re: James/BigAsh 182 Race Car by TDF... It doesn't get much better than this! *Pic He heard a filthy rumour he drove the arse off it and set a faster best lap than Tony or Jay. Don't f**k about now will you James :eek:

It's a Idle control bypass. there's a hole just pre butterfly so filtered air is taken from just infront of the throttle when it's closed for the idle control valve

order of likelyhood Throttle body needs cleaning/replacing Coilpack fault. (eleventy billion other things) throttle pedal. Plug it in, the light is on for a reason, it will tell you a fault code. Guessing will do you as much good as scratching you bum hole and sniffing it

However, if you can find a motor factor open, the seal you need is a 35-47-55.

separe kit entirely. Won't be included with anything you have part number 7701471629

no, the seal you need only comes in a kit. It's a pair of seals, and new nut, and bolt. about £25

Pictures of what you NEED to be able to do it correctly. Autodata also tells lies, so have a search for the official renault manual. It exists in PDF form on the internet, but i'm not sure where anymore...

Doc was egging me on, while Ken plied the site owner with beer. And yes, that is the floor on fire lol

read the last sentence of your first post which starts "can I just...." Pretty much anything that starts like that will be done wrong, and is generally why these are cocked up. Shortcuts don't work