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oh was it you, LOL Yeah.....hideous!!!

I have the car currently ;) spent half the evening rectifying the job that had been done. Gear linkage had smashed the crap out of the lambda so it was fully dead. Exhaust and cat fit PERFECTLY now ;) along with a nice new cat fitting kit

Can't find it in this thread, but whoever recommended the people that welded that sports cat in needs a slap

Cheap dogshit, run away

just get genuine, list price is £59.60 a corner

won't get the correct cup bits from Euro/GSF etc Simple answer is they can't and usually fit the wrong parts. I've removed base model springs from 182's before

seems legit

you need to find a way to hold the nuts inside the body whilst undoing the bolts. Front ones aren't too bad (bit fiddly) but the rears are a massive pain

you'll probably find differences. HTC changed loads but it all looks very similar

sorry yeah, froyo was 2.2 I normally go by the numbers tbh

The come direct from the Mintex distributor. As I said before, we fitted some years ago in Wilwood fitment, they're easily available usually

That's my kind of civic!!

Got one in to do at the moment, got the genuine kit same day. Get a better dealer ;)

FROYO (frozen Yoghurt)

well yes, it should always be the upper and lower done at the same time IMO

I do them. I'll be updating a lot of before and after results for things like this soon :)

updated yesterday and the 99 streak limit is fixed. Calmed down to a sensible rate of play now. Still loving it though

get a mk1 ;)

definitely sounds like mounts, gearbox one probably

lol, again, sort of. I'm being very pedantic but some of the very high boiling point fluids are a 5.1 (Castrol one is IIRC) :)

Just a thought, did you fit new disks with the 1166 pads? If you didn't they won't have worked to full potential. 1166's are really aggressive so I'm surprised you found them lacking in bite. However the F4's will be a step up, but they're definitely more progressive to use than CL RC6's

We used the F4R pads in the GDI 182 years ago. Superb!!!!

if the valve is gummed up, remove the spring, lubricate the mechanism and work it back and forth, then bleed the rear brakes. Had to open one fully recently to get any fluid through to the rears at all

I don't think any of them would really be amazing on track. All very much exercises in as much as possible, just because, and Stevie and K-Tec's cars to the absolute highest standards possible in every detail. I've not seen Stevies car in person, but I'm told it's faultlessly prepared

probably MATT BLACK's old VAG engined one but when Norm owned it. Can't remember what figures it did though. K-Tec's current 400~bhp one and Stevie H's trophy are the biggest power F4R's I can think of in clios

Brisk (an autosmart product) is designed for cleaning up biological mess like blood and vomit

I don't see the advantage unless you want it to work on other vehicles. The 3/8 square drive is welded on at the ideal angle. I might make a few and sell them if i can get hold of some reasonably cheap extensions to cut up

not an entirely accurate post as superblue is a DOT4. You're right that it's boiling points that are the difference (and blue fluid is a piec of piss to bleed) but DOT rating are not boiling point related

I tried it too, and it didn't locate properly, or give enough swing because of being straight So I made this:

xu10 steel sump with factory baffles. Done