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I'd suggest just using narrowband and plugging into the existing loom. the 600 can technically run wideband, but it's not a simple case of ticking boxes. The plug on your loom should be a 3 pin, get an NGK sensor for a mk1 clio 1.8 16v and it should plug straight in. If you can email me the...

read it again ;) silver 172 cups making in excess of 182bhp

you've zero knowledge of my education or experience. I dont talk/type about myself constantly unlike you. It's boring, you might grasp that fact if you could shut up about yourself for a bit

Seen 2 silver cups with AC make over 182, both standard and both on days when 172's were making 170

Look at the pistons. The ones with less dish are correct for a 172/182

It is a moving part so there will always be a little movement. You'd likely find that there's less play once it's run and there is oil in the pulley.

cable will have popped off the release arm, I've done the exact same thing without noticing before, easily done

No worries :) Idle spark is a touch too far retarded but it'll be ok until you get a warm day. I usually aim for around +3-5deg. That's close enough for now though until you get it mapped. Do you have the lambda sensor active?

driveshaft can't effect steering geometry so it wont be that.

182s had more sound deadening there. It normally rubs on the pulley and sometimes the belt so I don't refit them. Not needed.

it can if it's bad enough. Usually means it's been in poor condition for an extended period. Could be other things and it's coincidental though.

correct drain plug is £3

I think you should stick to pissing off migweb and passionford with your boring waffle, c'est la vie.

Just call when you're ready, I'll supply everything

Yes can do that for you, work on all sorts. In the last few weeks aside from clios, I've had 3, 5 and 7 series BMW's, an Alfa 156 and a 16 seater VW minibus in for work amongst others

with the parts and labour involved in the swap, you'd be better off buying another set of cams 182 cup 60mm bolt spacing, everything else is 52mm

the blanking cap on the dephaser was torqued up to an unreal level, and with no washer in place. the lugs where the bolts go through to hold the dephaser together all sheared off (I believe due to the massive over torque), the bolts worked their way out and jammed up, shattered the pulley and...

to how much fuel the injectors can deliver? I think not

absolutely genuinely

most of the time failures are down to shredded aux belts, shattered idler pulleys, or previous incorrect work meaning the pulleys slip. Very rare to see a belt actually break. Does happen, but usually as in this picture it's down to poor workmanship

inspection is the only way to diagnose this

post #2

other good quality brands are £40-£50 roughly

172/182 are same, 182 cup packed it different (and a fair bit more expensive)

only if you ask nicely

you also suck balls

rear one is an utter waste of time due to the way the shocks are mounted and having nothing to do with the geometry, front does a bit if it's fitted well, but the mk2 doesn't really need it

SKF, FAG, ABK or genuine

WAY easier to replace the whole shaft. Important to use a torque wrench on the hub nut, the wheelbearing wont last ling if under or over tightened.