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i'm tight as f**k with tyres, but £30!!!!!! good god. False economy strikes again

Taking the rack to its stops puts pressure on the pump, not unusual on any car to get a bit of belt slip on any car

That's rights. A 90 is good if you go on track, bit thicker when hot

If you mean the Oreca one, you still need to weld mountings in for it

white = Heater white = heater Black = Signal Grey = Earth doesn't matter which white wire does what, it's not polarity sensitive

you're just jealous of the colour :p

yeah seen a fair few issues. They're refurbished units and they're rarely even as good as standard, let alone the upgrade they claim.

those are the inclusive prices, and yes the extra part is what locks into the pulley teeth. you need that for any F4R with VVT

Techniclutch :( Looks excellent apart from that

needs plugging in to proper diagnostics at this point

i mention compression as the symptons are very similar to engines I've worked on that are prone to valve wear. It may be that you have something causing poor sealing of the valves. Worth testing for at least

seen this before on a 172. I found it to be dirty injectors that didn't close fully so the engine would idle with all 4 injectors unplugged.

degrees and minutes ;) 60 mins in 1 degree

I ran T1R's all last winter in the snow on my coilovered mk1. probably the least traction issues from any car I've driven in the snow. Being light was a huge advantage, I'n not looking forward to the 850 in the snow at all

Are you planning on going on track at all? If not just normal Pagid disks and pads is a great setup. £99 for both from me

We're now able to supply maps from K-tec, so this would be identical, without you having to travel as far The gains are certainly realistic, but thats about as far as you can go Dan

Remap makes the tce a lot of fun. We can do this for you too

have you done a compression test?

704's are still quite mild really. What else are you doing to the engine? There are other cam profiles available which are not listed, but you will need to change your valve springs. There are 7 further profiles to choose from for the K4, 3 of which I'd say are suitable for consideration in a...

that's the printout from using the maxogen isn't it? made 183 on stock airbox? Pretty sure your peak losses were ~23/24hp

M1155s are good. tbh 1144's are absolutely fine for the road

we were measuring 20-24bhp losses on 172's last weekend. Put it next to laines cup on the same dyno and I'd put money on it beating yours ;)

no, too short. you need bosch green giants (ECU dependent)

stock F4R is 11:1. That's high compression by any standards. at least 97ron should be used, use lower octane and the knock sensor will wind back the ignition timing and you'll get worse economy so there will be no saving and you'll be down on power (marginally) too.

this is not the same question, of course with new pistons you will replace the rings, so a hone is important. This however has nothing to do with skimming the head

PFR6E -10

they're 440cc, but have a fantastic spray pattern and are very controllable at low duty. I used them on a ~200hp ITB'd F7R recently and they performed faultlessly and gave great accuracy

you're right, it's the exact same stuff as total/ELF is the same company. I'd be shocked to find 5 litres of any oil for less than £40 in a petrol station though

Custom exhausts are pointless when there's such a huge range of systems available or better quality for very similar money

that is the main body of the tool (£49.42) You also need the alternative sprocket and spacer kit (£19.87) Can order all of this for you