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not hard......you can get a kit for all doors, tailgate, fuel cap and barrel for little outlay. Its about 2hrs work, not hard, just pop off and on. Door locks can be fiddly if you dont twist it right.

ally blocked Mi16 is a 1.9, iron blocked mi16 out of the 306 is 2ltr and pap.

Viper will tear after a years use if not babied.

lol, done exactly the same thing in the summer, then a garage broke one the nxt day copying up the solid brake lines hahahaha.

The speed sender on the back of the speedo as said. Not your car so you want really run a couple test runs can you.

:confused:

A spanner placed across the piston will allow you to simply squeese it with your hands back into the caliper.

The steering arm is the part between rack and track rod end, threaded bar. The bottom A arm, suspension arm, track arm, wishbone or whatever you care to call it is nowt to do with steering or tracking as its not adj.

There is no fanbelt. When stationary have somebody mover the steering wheel side to side and watch the power steering pump. The screeching is normally the belt slipping over the pulley.

torque

Carbs will work, and many people retro fit carbs to modern injection engines for installation simplicity and cost when they stick the motors in classic or non OE cars. The easiest way to get them running is to use one of the available DCOE flange manifolds, use a adj pressure reg before the...

thought you just said RON MON DON, its all a con?

ITG has a larger filter element and has the bonus of not tearing itself after a year. Just better quality. And it wont be making any less bhp than say a viper or BMC.

95 is fine, dont worry about anything. In an ironic way, 95 RON is more combustable and will release more energy than 98. Have fun and dont worry or be sucked into the marketing madness that is fuel RON ratings. Ask them for the MON rating then consider things.

To get the tappets out, youll have to loosen the tensioner and do the same procedure to replace a cam belt as it will need to come off to take the cams out without flinging the ends up as you loosen the bearing caps. With the belt off, take the valve cover off. Loosen in sequnce the cam...

its just surface rust on the discs. nowt to worry about

replace the bushes in the linkage.

eh? The tappet surface can be cleaned up so long as you keep it perfectly level. The hydraulic system can be cleaned by removing the tappet inners and using thinners etc etc. But have a look around at mounts, nuts/heat shields as they can make noises similar to that and are far easier to...

yea, caught me up pretty fast! lol

no

hey, i can sit for a long time!!!!

They can rust sitting there. And for general knowledge, discs dont warp as such....i,e, they dont encounter an even concave/convex profile on one point.

lol.....ive never had a problem with them, but i dont use them much .

No point, all oils already have EPAs that work better than the solid suspension PTFE. PTFE aint bad, just crap in this method of use, it needs to be sintered/alloyed to bearing sufaces.

IIRC a while back nick voiced his opinion that a lower rear has a more stable attitude. Always another angle on things, ask him what his preffered choice is.

:o I cant help it, we live on food stamps in Hong Kong........and they dont taste very good.

cya nxt month then! :D

lol, if you pay the airfare and put me up, im all yours hehehehe.

They were VERY good, and all you really need, fiddling about with suspension settings doesnt really get most people anywhere because they dont know the reasons for changes.

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