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advancing the timing on this engine will have no benefits becaues it runs a knock detection sensor which will r****d the ignition to back where you started. Dont go slipping in silly resistors on a perfectly good management system.

rising rate adj reg. thats the significant diff.

And the use of a small chinese child lol. http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/10/web/322000-322999/322115_81_full.jpg http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/10/web/322000-322999/322115_82_full.jpg

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its doesnt, but rd tyres dont generate enough lateral G to really flex medern shells to any significant degree. It wont do much, but thats my opnion.

That is an IK, but its been cut and sealed on teh otherside of the inner wing.

minimal diff on rd tyres

if interested PM me and ill tell you about the effect of the diff kits tested.

induction kit = open cone style filter Replacement filter = original airbox but filter made of different material rather than paper.

youll get safer braking........if you lock it youll go in a striaght line. I set mine up to work with load transfer on corner entry so that you can control the tail with trailing brakes.

Right, what is needed or best for you depends what you do mostly. I reguarly do track days but i still run a completely standard brake setup. Std ferodo pads (same as those from halfords) and std plain discs, i NEVER get fade on track nor rd, under any circumstances. Its far more important...

not a hard job, bonnet, offside headlamp and if need be the slam panel off. Once off you can take the alt off and replace it with room.

once its disengauged you can change, no probs, no worries. But most racing drivers will use the full travel of the clutch to make sure.

IF they have the equipment then yes. Have a look under your car and see if it has a compensator as the 172 uses the ABS/EBD computer and a load sensor on the rear axle to calculate and distribute the braking as needed, its not mechanical. have a looksee.

you will increase torque and decrease the level at which it reaches peak torque. But capacity isnt a function of peak BHP. So you wont increase bhp by much, rather just make a more torquey engine. But, the larger capacity will allow you to run a wilder cam without feeling the offcam nonsense...

not many people have access to the gauges though.

fitting springs is a 2hr job andy anybody can really do it. I do the job for 50 quid for mates, but that totally depends on where you are. As for teh brake bias valve Ren have specific setting pressures front to rear. But you cna adj it yourself to what you want or what you feel...

who has time to do that with a full tank of fuel and driver weight lol. I increased the rear preassure on mine as it works better on track.....can get tricky on the rd int eh wet though....go slow haha.

You dont need new dampers as good condition OE ones are fine despite what some monkeys will say. You dont need ot correct the camber as it doesnt alter massively and camber isnt always a bad thing. Some adj might be needed on the mechanical compensators above the rear axle.

depends by what means you use. If you increase the bore youll need to find oversize pistons and youll need to find out how much of an overbore the block will take before you break into a waterway. If your stroking it you can either get the big ends offset but youll need to get your con rods...

Using the blocks from other engines is always an idea, but only viable if they are compatible. othwerise youll be left with different water wathways and oilways, water pumps, flywheels, ECU problems with sensors....etc etc......and the cylinder head wont fit onto the block. Recap a bit, you...

Renault use a pressure gauge on the rear calipers to check, but all you need to do is make sure the fronts lock before the rear, unless you like it the other way around. Get under your car and check it isnt seized first, you should be able to move the paddle by hand through its 1" or so...

They do, even new 172s are crap and they use the same rear calipers

dowels should stay in the block.

hehehehehehehehe.....................................:sleep:ZZZZZZZzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

id be much more interested in the front end when you learn what they do to it.

youll have to check the condition of your existing ones.

THe computer controls EVERYTHING.

The caliper guide sleeves could be seized as this happens often and will mean that one side of the pad touches all the time or doesnt sit flat with the disc face. Vibration is most likey runout from a peice of dirt/sand/grit behind the disc, or at work a knock on the hum leaving a high edge...