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the relationships always more fun when your just flirting. lol!
car, you must be lovely when drunk...torsion, we cant just call you torsion, sounds like a ripped wrestlers name!
A wee dig deeper rob, ever driven one?
Its the fronts thats dodgy, not teh rear, but its not life threatning.
Ive not read the 10 billion other posts, but my opinions is, hell why not!
You dont drive fast, well as fast as the car can go so youll be pretty much safe at any speed you will...
they are good engine, but Ren was pansy with it.
The std heads can make close to 300bhp without being touched.
Just upgrade the valve train and cams, twin plenham off the trophy cars, exhaust ecu blah blah blah, its good and easy to get the power.
rain, as long as its not totally submerged and your intake system is air tight then its not a problem.
little bit a of vapour and some moisture on teh filter is ok.
lift the closing height of the rear edge of the bonnet 1/2" as a high pressure zone (relative) is created there and can circulate cool air into the bay.......find another way to vent it lol!
yes, but it helps with the control of weight shift and roll geometry changes.
ANd wheel rate, you related twisting to suspension, stiffer chassis with the same suspension would result in "stiffer suspension" Thus wheel rate being the final suspension rate.
SUre, the variables might never...
No, its deffo a science, but the unknown is the twisting values whilst driving, eliminating this unknown allows you more precise control on what you know is happening.
Chassis rigidity, its not going to alter the wheel rate. Stiffer suspension on the wrong surface will lead to more sliding as...
gaskets all get used during the job, but cam and stem seals are cam out and valve spring out jobs.
If you cant fit a head yourself i wouldnt recommend it, if you can strip a head bare and put it back together, go for it........its not overly hard....
yup, much better idea or youll spend wads on taken tyres on and off. and damage your rims.
And track day tyres, cheap is the word! lol
Get some colway cut slicks etc, cheaper than yokys and just as good, sure, they might sound a bit crap but most privateer rally racers use them.
Yes, so i said it too.......................
or is that a new rule, only Chris or I can post in a single topic.......unless its to talk about smelting and neon power ups?
lol
Jesus!
What a field day!
Chassis rigidity has nothing to do with roll, understeer has nothig t do with strut location or rigidity, clio cup racers run them cause slick can generate higher loadings and thus flex the shell more, creating more unwated geometry changes durnig corners. Eliminate...
well, there isnt anything you can do for free unless your a competant engine builder, no screws to fiddle, no pressures to raise no nothing.
So nothing cheap and easy to do.
You could replace the w**k std TB with a larger one from the 1.8 spi laguna.
Jesus you made a big mess for changing discs! lol :P
I always change pads and discs together just because old discs with new pads wear badly, and vice versa. As long as your old pads aint got funny grooves and scores then you should be fine.
Direction dont matter too much as it has nothing...