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no, its on a 2lre bottom end.

thats the F7P head

What did u use!? a drill!!!??:o Apart form that, looking nice, you have very clean cam bearings too.......i have a lip on a now scrap head that will rip a cam to shreads :cry:

yup, but he has a turbo on it lol

what poundage are you running then?

Looking good! But what have you dont to the ports?

i bet you a tenner he didnt too!

They have a different material face. They use either 2 or 3 cerametallic plates which have a greater bite and clam load than the slippy low torque organic ones. They are a go between of organic and sintered mutiplate clutches. They do not slip amazingly well and are quite jerky, uphil...

did you not wrap it?

what sort of pressure are you mean to be running at? Is the reserviour on the carb leveled with boost aswell?

its always labour that is the killer.

well, in that case dont bother! lol the fly alone is so expensive cause of the labour, like you say. If you want that blip and rev experiance youll need everything done, itll run smoother at rpm too as the std assembly isnt the best balanced set of parts. 500 quid for a flywheel....yowza!

you wont get much alone from doing the fly alone...... if i was gonna start balancing i would do the whole lot, crank, fly, rods and pistons. Youll see a much better diff. if you take all your parts to a engien specialist, it should only cost about 100 for the lot, then put it back together.

lol......sods law eh!

hardoware will set you back about 50 quid, and to do the job yourself is free. Its not a hard job, if you can unbolt and rebult then your set. Its nothing more than drive shafts out, roll pin out the offside shaft (youll need a new one), unbolt the box, take it out, unbolt the clutch over...

my MK1 XR2 is running the nitrous. Your RSi will have been running milage already and its not likely to change. If you want it, go for it, its nothing dangerous and its nothing stressing for the engine. Its far better than headowrk and cams for a pure power boost, but youll have the...

they are all relatively well priced as is. I personally use simpson equipement from the states cause its saved me more than one so i stick with what i like. Bit more expensive, but its worth gettign decent kit. Any of the FIA approved ones wont be 3 point. Sabelt, LUKE, Wllans........and...

no need to uprate anything. PM me if your interested in a kit, and i mean interested, not get the prices then decide not to.... Ive been runing N20 for about 2yrs on 50bhp jets and never had a problem with anything. Cheap as chips and fun.

It upsets your handling. But if your other damper is relatively new then you can do the one only, but if your other one has done the same miles as the car, id get a new pair.

the MK1 has a single lambda twin element cat after, much better than the sing cat used on MK2s which have twin lambdas. The swap to single element cat is simply for qicker warmup times to meet the stringent no warmup period EURO 3 spec emissions.

lol....i need new tyres :sick:....rears are bold and they slide everywhere. But i should be down sometime nxt week.

sparkers are to ignite the mixture inside the cylinder, injectors supply the fuel in meterd amounts. You have single point injection, not a carb, a carb does not use any form of electronic or mechanical high pressure fuel injection. It uses air velocity to draw fuel of a miryad of...

cant see the pics

his car!!!!

nice!!!

6.6 secs is incredibly fast in real life........ must have a shed load of work!

yup it can be HUGELY OUT. But even with an AP22, most people are more inclined to change a few sneaky figures to get slightly better readings. you have to get teh setting on the AP22 so perfect to get a credible reading.

replace in pairs

50bhp and a huge dollop of economy increase.

LMAO!