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Bumper is a piece of piss to get off exhaust will be more fun, removing the heatshield where it goes over the beam gives you a lot more room to get the exhaust through and stop the centre box from getting stuck. Make sure you've got some exhaust silicone for the cat to centre joint or you'll...

Yeh they'll fit, they will widen the track due to the lower offset.

They 99.9% will be the original clocks, there was a batch of 52 platers that all had authentique/expression dials in them for whatever reason. Knowing renault they probably ran out of RS clocks that week so just had a dig in the parts bin.

15s is as small as you can go and my old super t's only just cleared the caliper by a gnats bollock.

Short on the compressor clutch line? Had the exact same thing on my 1.6 after someone bolted the alternator onto the lead for it :o.

Its deca newton metres as said same as kg/m just the french like being the french. Just multiply by ten as above.

Had to wait 5 weeks and have been with them for a few years now, absolute piss take that new customers can get it straight away :mad:. Tis good though I must admit.

Shows 9.5:1 on the stuff i've got here for the F4RT lump in them? Dated though so could be wrong. Don't suppose you've got the later megane repair manuals that cover the RS and the 774 lump do you? (guess where i'm going ;))

Thought it was higher comp with a lower pressure turbo on the 165 lump?

Anyone noticed in this months PFC mag in their 172 project section they mention pulling the ABS fuse on track days as its too intrusive apparently. Got to wonder where they get their facts from as a) I don't personally think it was that intrusive and most importantly b) pulling the abs fuse...

Assuming your talking at the 165bhp 2.0T lump? Not the same.

What car is it? And it sound more like just a hidden kill switch than a proper immobiliser?

You got the glass to the wall again? :rasp:

Will be fine.

No signs really they can fail at any time. 5yrs/72k is the longest you should leave it between changed, ideally 4yrs/60k is more realistic to err on the safe side.

Its not sealed its just a more complex route so most of the oil vapour will condense and run back down into the box rather than striaght exiting and making an oily stick mess of the bay. Its only a small bore hole/tube anyway it'd take forever to fill it through that, nothing wrong with the...

Yeh thats the engine management fault light, probably just a lambda sensor fault. Could be shot cat or shot sensor, or it'll go away on its own after a few starts.

Thats the breather and you do not use it to fill the box.

Had no real problems with mine on the 225, tailpipes were getting a little rusty but they've been fine since they stopped chucking bloody road salt about the place.

Does it do it straight away or only as the car warms up?

90nm but anywhere between 90 and 110 will be fine.

ATF will be fine, pumps are pipes are expensive full stop really.

Answered your own question there really if sockets are spinning and rounding the bolt. Will need to be cut off carefully.

noice!

Only once with the 1.6 and regretted it later but nothing major, haven't done it again though mind.

Renault for the aux belt kit.

Yes it does and its in the thermostat housing on the right hand side of the head iirc its been a long time since i've touched a d4f lump.

Be either the map sensor or the vvt soleniod. Nothing down the back on the engine, pre cat lambda is in the area though.

Not on a 182 it doesn't, ETC on those so no idle speed control valve.

Just to echo what you don't want to hear, its just not worth doing full stop. Effort/cost compared to the result just doesn't add up.