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Ahh pure quality thread as ever.

Yes

Re: Mk1 Hybrid Project Its stamped on the block on the front to the right of the oil filter, its horizontally stamped and its under part where it'll have F4R-730/2/3/8 stamped on it. Will most probably be well rusted by now.

Heater Fan Control Pack died on me on a very cold and misty october morning at 5am (got me a day off work though bonus) and had a very very wierd throttle issue due to water getting into a plug in the skutttle. Other than that was ok.

Been trying to turn it over a lot? Battery gone flat if so, might be lucky if the aux belts snapped and left the cambelt the battery may just be flat as the engines stayed running and the alternator hasn't been turning to charge the battery. Oil filler off and turn it over to see if the cams...

K4 lumps are pretty much the same design just smaller so the possibilty exists the same with the 1.4 and 1.6 16v engines.

Probably need an oscilloscope but not 100% on that one. Might see something with a meter.

s**t

NO do not put it in the breather. Fill/level plug on the front of the box.

Dogbone mount.

Which bits you after? Mines cupped so the suspension is the same, the independant swivel hub is a fruity (but good) idea.

Cable or its just the clutch tbh, mine used a get a bit sticky when it got hot after some start/stop traffic use.

Take the cable off the quadrant above the pedal to see if its the pedal assembly or the actual clutch/cable for a start. Cables a right hoot if thats what needs changing. Although not really sure what you mean by crunchy.

Re: Mk1 Hybrid Project Your brave without the tools imo, you'll need them to get it timed back up anyway.

My monies straight on UCH, its the king of wierd problems like this.

Yes the problem is that the airbag comp is expecting to see side airbags where there aren't any now. The resistors mimic the resistance of an undetonated airbag as to fool the computer into thinking the bags still there.

Can't do that as the leak is after the throttle body, it'll effect the MAP reading and idle high no matter what.

75w80, 3.5l iirc. Wants a new copper crush washer from renault for the drain plug, otherwise its a simple case of dropping the old stuff out the drain plug on the bottom and filling it up until it comes back out the fill/level plug.

They are f**king mint!

Just put your hand behind the dash and push it out, otherwise its prises out easy peasy too.

Ah yes don't forget to get the water pump changed as well it'll almost definetly be leaking.

Has the dial down by the headlight adjuster been turned right down? (if its fitted) Otherwise the cable might have come out the link thats fitted when the dial isn't.

72k/5years as per normal. Piss easy job on the D4F anyway shouldn't cost a great ammount.

Have you not wondered why its been idling high?

Don't suppose this was being trailored up the M1 saturday was it? I'm almost sure its the same one that I saw on my way to donny.

Thats the wrong number i'm afriad, renault part numbers are ten numbers in 2 groups of 2 and 2 groups of 3 (xx xx xxx xxx). I can have a look tomorrow and tell you what it should be if someone else can't first.

Software thing completely, can be turned off on windows mobile with a registry patch. Which is good as its a shite idea and generally pisses me off!

Need to get the oil pressure tested but might/probably will be a faulty oil pressure switch.

G clamp should get it back if you can't do it with your mitts.

Its the heater fan speed control pack, a resistor pack is a different thing. Renault should know what you mean its a pretty common thing to f**k up.