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Very useful as a tool as you can read all the fault codes not just the OBDII ones, the actuator tests are useful too.
Still need some time to decide on the remap and the £140 price tag, seems good so far though. Although i'd rather not have the raised rev limiter the 98ron optimised one gives.
The current latest one from the fastchip site, doesn't matter anyway (hopefully!) henks just mailed me a custom one to try. Can't beat the customer service thats for sure!
A Evesham Micros 486DX-33, 4mb of Ram, 1mb Cirris Logic graphics card, 5.25"+3.5" floppy drives. Was a beast, added a triple speed cdrom and a creative soundblaster pro at some point later in its life so I could play star wars rebel assault on cdrom woo!
Anyone else lost theirs when they flashed? Mine won't let me set a speed and the functions are now reversed on the switch?? :S
Have emailed Henk but just wondering if anyone else has had this and how did they sort it? Is it the old you've got to drive so far before it'll let you set them? What...
Yep its firmer without a doubt, you get vibration in the cabin on idle which pisses you off bigtime as well. Wish i'd never bothered with it tbh, waste of time for the benefit it gives.
Lost me, outputs? The feeds to the fan will be obviously, there should be continuity through to earth (with a resistance) if you wanted to check the fan wiring.
Letting them die right down still won't really help, a double-declutched downshift would though. I always do it at high revs to try and save the syncros from wearing out, never just mash it in.
Yes the second bar was fitted, it doesn't take the bending force that the gearbox hole takes. The standard mounts are soft for a reason, I won't be using them again. Thats off my old 1.6 anyway so it's all dead and buried.
Should always have 12v on the pin on one side of the relay that actually feeds the fan though, its just the 12v feed from the ECU to close the relay shouldn't be there now until necessary.
Can't really tell from those videos but I could go along with missfire from the noise I get, certainly isn't ESP thats for sure.
If the ESP light doesn't illuminate when you turn the ignition on then you haven't got it, some of the very early ones had none switchable esp iirc so you'll have it...
A shaft from renault will be circa £150, which side is shot? The drivers or passenger side? Passenger side will want the gearbox oil changing as well as you'll lose it all when you take the shaft out.
You able to do it yourself? I'm not far away if help is needed.
Also to add you should have a pin on both relays that'll be 12v all the time anyway but that shouldn't be put onto the fan until the either relay closes so either the ECU is closing the relay(s) (going along the CTS route) or the relay is fudged and it stuck closed hence try swapping them over...
In the 172 the fan is controlled by the ECU and has two relays which can power it, one is for the high speed the other for slow speed for the a/c. There should be two relays in the engine relay/fusebox one of which will put 12v directly onto the fan for full speed and the other will pass 12v...
You want NGK PFR6E-10 plugs. I got mine for ebay for £30 or so delivered.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PFR6E-10-NGK-SPARK-PLUGS-NGK-WHOLESALE-PRICES-3688_W0QQitemZ270172081697QQihZ017QQcategoryZ72205QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247